K2 update - back in Skardu
Chris has dropped us a note from Skardu to let us know that he, sophie, lakpa and the entire staff are back in town and done with the long trekking days to come out. the treks are typically 8-10 hours a day and are a bit of a grind after already being so tired from the climb but no one wants to extend the trek much as soft beds, hot showers and fresh food beckon! Chris will check in again from Islamabad with a general trip report and update. They are hoping to fly today to Islamabad if the weather cooperates!
It looks like Wim Smets has become the first Belgian to top out on Broad Peak so we congratulate him for that! Sophie has made the shortest triple 8000m summits with Cho Oyu, Lhotse and Broad Peak in less than three months - not to mention an attempt on K2 to boot! There may be other firsts or interesting facts ahead and we'll post them here as we learn about them.
Spantik Update - back in BC
Tim called in to let us know there was considerable rain and poor weather but his transmission was quite garbled. They were back in BC again after the first push up to C1. We have had a number of periods this summer where the Thuraya connections have been quite bad and we'll expect a full report when the satellites allow!
Satopanth
Our team will be assembling in Delhi in early September and we'll begin dispatches at that time. A remote and challenging 7000m peak, it will be the second time FTA has tacked it with a successful trip in 2009 our first.
Ama Dablam
We have two trips this autumn that will be getting under way in early October and early November respectively. We have spaces available on both so let us know if you are interested! Our November 4 trip is filling fast so spaces are limited!
Khumbu Peaks and Passes
4 peaks and 3 passes in 24 days in the heart of the Khumbu is hard to beat! Island Peak, Lobuche E, Pokalde and Gokyo Ri for climbers and we welcome trekkers to join us as well. During the climbing days the trekkers will have great side trips or relaxing days looking out at the great peaks. Spaces for cliombers and trekkers available still.
Farther ahead...
Aconcagua and Ecuador
We have quite a few trips from November through to the end of February on Aconcagua's False Polish, Polish Glacier and normal routes as well as Cotopaxi, Cayambe and other great peaks in Ecuador.
New Trips: Stok Kankri and Noshaq
Join us in India or Afghanistan in 2012... contact us for the pilot programs. We plan on Noshaq in July and Stok Kangri in September. We'll be setting the exact dates in the next few months but both trips will run about 24 days.
Check out our site for all the details!
Showing posts with label k2. Show all posts
Showing posts with label k2. Show all posts
Saturday, August 13, 2011
Sunday, August 7, 2011
Saturday, August 6, 2011
FTA K2 2011 - Summit Push Aborted
From Stu in the usa office
6 August 2011
After pushing to C4 and spending the night in preparation for a summit attempt the winds were simply too strong and Sophie, Lakpa and all HAP's have descended to C2. On Sunday they will drop back to BC and we expect to have more news and updates when they are down safe and sound.
The team will need to clear the higher camps of gear on the 8th and be ready for the porters on the 9th or 10th.
We are glad that our K2 team has given the mountain a good effort but summits attempts are simply not possible in the winds they had and even high winds are coming in tomorrow leaving no more windows for our team this summer.
Chris will be dropping a few audio dispatches in the days ahead and a final report when he gets back to Skardu in a few days time.
Meanwhile over on Spantik our team led by Tim Colquhoun is already in BC and getting ready to begin tackling one of the great 7000m peaks in Pakistan! Stay tuned to follow their progress beginning shortly!
6 August 2011
After pushing to C4 and spending the night in preparation for a summit attempt the winds were simply too strong and Sophie, Lakpa and all HAP's have descended to C2. On Sunday they will drop back to BC and we expect to have more news and updates when they are down safe and sound.
The team will need to clear the higher camps of gear on the 8th and be ready for the porters on the 9th or 10th.
We are glad that our K2 team has given the mountain a good effort but summits attempts are simply not possible in the winds they had and even high winds are coming in tomorrow leaving no more windows for our team this summer.
Chris will be dropping a few audio dispatches in the days ahead and a final report when he gets back to Skardu in a few days time.
Meanwhile over on Spantik our team led by Tim Colquhoun is already in BC and getting ready to begin tackling one of the great 7000m peaks in Pakistan! Stay tuned to follow their progress beginning shortly!
Thursday, August 4, 2011
FTA K2 2011 - Summit Push update
from Stu in the USA office
Chris called in to let us know that the summit push is under way and they reached C3 on the 3rd as planned. Sophie, Lakpa, Farhad, Aziz and Said were in C3 last night and hope to push to C4 today. Rob came back down to BC after pushing towards C3 and is reconsidering his options at this time.
The winds have been very strong even at base camp so they will be watching carefully this afternoon and evening for the very latest reports before making a final call on a summit bid on the 5th. All members are safe and sound and Chris will have more later today on how the push to C4 has gone. Stay tuned!
Chris called in to let us know that the summit push is under way and they reached C3 on the 3rd as planned. Sophie, Lakpa, Farhad, Aziz and Said were in C3 last night and hope to push to C4 today. Rob came back down to BC after pushing towards C3 and is reconsidering his options at this time.
The winds have been very strong even at base camp so they will be watching carefully this afternoon and evening for the very latest reports before making a final call on a summit bid on the 5th. All members are safe and sound and Chris will have more later today on how the push to C4 has gone. Stay tuned!
Sunday, July 31, 2011
FTA K2/Broad Peak 2011 - Update from K2 BC
From Stu in the USA office,
31st July, 2011
Chris has called in with an update from K2 where the team is now resting in preparation for a summit bid. Lakpa, Chris and the HAPs (Farhad, Aziz and Said) have now carried gear (rope, tents etc) and oxygen in C2 in preparation for a summit push this week. Everyone is back at BC with a rest day planned for August 1st. As it stands they plan to ascend to C2 on the 2nd, C3 on the 3rd, C4 on the 4th and then make a summit bid on the 5th. They are running into deep snow high on the route and this will represent a real challenge to establishing camp on the Shoulder in the days ahead so there will be a need for sharing the hard work to do.
They are hopeful to make a bid on Friday the 5th and the weather will dictate this possibility. The predictions have been for calm summit winds for the 2nd to 5th but there looks now to be rising summit winds on the 5th so that window may close before they can make this push in which case they will hope for another window the following week.
At this time FTA members Sophie, Rob and Lakpa will plan to make a summit bid with Chris planning to be in C2 in support during the bid. Farhad, Aziz and Said plan to deposit O2 and other gear in C4 and return to C3 on the 3rd. It is a real challenge for them to deliver these supplies to C4 and our success will depend a lot on how successful they are in their role. They have worked very hard for for our team on Broad Peak and have been a tremendous asset to the expedition as a whole.
Chris notes that the group of climbers now assembled on the Cesen are largely familiar to each other and that they are cooperating very well. Among them are FTA alum Alex Txicon who became the youngest Basque climber to reach an 8000m summit in 2003 on Broad Peak. As well Bruno Buchet who was with FTA in 2005 on Broad Peak is on the hill and joining to push. Fabrizio and Kinga who had planned to climb a different route but have been forced by conditions back on to known ground. Christian, Gerfried and more round out the assembled group. Initially teams were to have been on up to three different routes but now all hopes lie in the Cesen from the Pakistan side.
We'll have more news in the days ahead with the team's progress.
(Chris's dispatch is a bit garbled due to a poor connection but it worth a listen in!)
After long deliberation about making a bid on G2, Wim has decide to come on out and not make the climb. He had hoped that some teams would still be on the hill and the route in reasonable shape but by the sounds of it G2 is becoming quite deserted and not a safe enough objective without others on the hill. He should be out in 3 days to Skardu and we'll let you know when he is out.
The remainder of the team have all reached safely to Skardu and are on their way to Islamabad. They and all of us continue to have Jeff's loss very much affecting us and our thoughts are with Jeff's family and friends.
31st July, 2011
Chris has called in with an update from K2 where the team is now resting in preparation for a summit bid. Lakpa, Chris and the HAPs (Farhad, Aziz and Said) have now carried gear (rope, tents etc) and oxygen in C2 in preparation for a summit push this week. Everyone is back at BC with a rest day planned for August 1st. As it stands they plan to ascend to C2 on the 2nd, C3 on the 3rd, C4 on the 4th and then make a summit bid on the 5th. They are running into deep snow high on the route and this will represent a real challenge to establishing camp on the Shoulder in the days ahead so there will be a need for sharing the hard work to do.
They are hopeful to make a bid on Friday the 5th and the weather will dictate this possibility. The predictions have been for calm summit winds for the 2nd to 5th but there looks now to be rising summit winds on the 5th so that window may close before they can make this push in which case they will hope for another window the following week.
At this time FTA members Sophie, Rob and Lakpa will plan to make a summit bid with Chris planning to be in C2 in support during the bid. Farhad, Aziz and Said plan to deposit O2 and other gear in C4 and return to C3 on the 3rd. It is a real challenge for them to deliver these supplies to C4 and our success will depend a lot on how successful they are in their role. They have worked very hard for for our team on Broad Peak and have been a tremendous asset to the expedition as a whole.
Chris notes that the group of climbers now assembled on the Cesen are largely familiar to each other and that they are cooperating very well. Among them are FTA alum Alex Txicon who became the youngest Basque climber to reach an 8000m summit in 2003 on Broad Peak. As well Bruno Buchet who was with FTA in 2005 on Broad Peak is on the hill and joining to push. Fabrizio and Kinga who had planned to climb a different route but have been forced by conditions back on to known ground. Christian, Gerfried and more round out the assembled group. Initially teams were to have been on up to three different routes but now all hopes lie in the Cesen from the Pakistan side.
 |
| K2 from Broad peak BC © stu remensnyder |
We'll have more news in the days ahead with the team's progress.
(Chris's dispatch is a bit garbled due to a poor connection but it worth a listen in!)
After long deliberation about making a bid on G2, Wim has decide to come on out and not make the climb. He had hoped that some teams would still be on the hill and the route in reasonable shape but by the sounds of it G2 is becoming quite deserted and not a safe enough objective without others on the hill. He should be out in 3 days to Skardu and we'll let you know when he is out.
The remainder of the team have all reached safely to Skardu and are on their way to Islamabad. They and all of us continue to have Jeff's loss very much affecting us and our thoughts are with Jeff's family and friends.
Sunday, July 24, 2011
FTA K2/Broad Peak 2011 - Summit bid under way - team in C3!
From Stu in the USA office
24 July, 2011
Broad Peak Update - Summit push is on!
Chris has called in with the latest in the summit push and you can listen in below. The summit team is up in C3 and resting up, hydrating and eating as best they can in preparation for a 11pm/midnight departure.
At this time we have a summit team consisting of two of our HAP's and 5 members:
Said
Farhad
Wim
Jeff
Sophie
Andre
Mike
After a summer of high winds which have kept most teams grounded on Broad Peak or unable to climb much past C3 we have a good window over the next 24 hours with winds as low as 15-20 kmph and this will be the best chance for our team to place members high on the mountain.
24 July, 2011
 |
| View from the Col to the summit ridge |
Chris has called in with the latest in the summit push and you can listen in below. The summit team is up in C3 and resting up, hydrating and eating as best they can in preparation for a 11pm/midnight departure.
At this time we have a summit team consisting of two of our HAP's and 5 members:
Said
Farhad
Wim
Jeff
Sophie
Andre
Mike
After a summer of high winds which have kept most teams grounded on Broad Peak or unable to climb much past C3 we have a good window over the next 24 hours with winds as low as 15-20 kmph and this will be the best chance for our team to place members high on the mountain.
Saturday, June 25, 2011
FTA Broad Peak & K2 2011 - Summit push already under way!
From Stu in the USA office
25th June, 2011
Chris has called in with the latest at BC which includes that the team already has two members, Lakpa Sherpa and Sophie Denis, with designs on a rapid summit bid ahead of the fixed lines and established camps!
They have been having great weather and everyone if feeling well (despite a few GI challenges here and there). They have been working well with two other teams on the hill, Altitude Junkies and DAV, and the sense of camaraderie is running high. They have the rope fixed already to C2 and will be pushing the route through to C3 in the days ahead.
Coming off of summits of Everest (Lakpa) and Cho Oyu and Lhotse (Sophie), the plan had been to push up as high as they could go and see how they felt. Well they are feeling great and going to make a quick bid for the top Alpine style. The summit winds are expected to rise by the end of the day on the 26th so they hope to be up and back to high camp well ahead of the end of the day. I have climbed with Lakpa a number of times and he is one of the fastest climbers i have seen. Sophie put in some very quick times on Cho Oyu and Lhotse so they seem to make a good team!
We'll have all the news coming as they go for a very early summit on Broad Peak.
Wednesday, June 22, 2011
FTA K2/Broad Peak 2011 - Broad Peak BC and all well!
From Stu in the USA Office
June 23, 2011
Chris has called in with an update from Broad Peak BC to let us know everything is going well! The team is taking a few rest days and planning to head up to C1 in 2-3 days. In the meantime they are reviewing fixed line movement, sorting gear and enjoying the peace and solitude of the mountains!
June 23, 2011
Chris has called in with an update from Broad Peak BC to let us know everything is going well! The team is taking a few rest days and planning to head up to C1 in 2-3 days. In the meantime they are reviewing fixed line movement, sorting gear and enjoying the peace and solitude of the mountains!
 | ||
| moving on some fixed in 2003 © stu remensnyder |
Tuesday, June 21, 2011
FTA K2/Broad Peak 2011 - In Goro II today and on to Broad Peak BC tomorrow!
from stu in the usa office,
21 June 2011
Chris has called in from Goro II and left a great audio disapatch below. In it he shares the latest news from the K2/Broad Peak team. They had a great day trekking in from Urdukas and enjoyed a warm (25°C) day with superb views of Gasherbrum IV, Gasherbrum II, Broad Peak and Masherbrum!
In a normal year our team would tromp on up to the famed Concordia camp site and then take a short walk the next morning to Broad Peak BC. For the first time that i know of there is insufficient snow in Concordia and the team will be skipping this campsite on their way to Broad Peak base camp. By the end of last season the snow loss was dramatically greater than in typical years. This was due in large part to the conditions that caused the horrific flooding across great swathes of Pakistan. It remains to be seen how this will play out on the 8000m peaks in the Karakoram and potentially may mean icier or rockier conditions on Broad Peak and K2.
have a listen in below to Chris's dispatch from Goro II!
We have already had a lot of emails for climbers interested in 8000m peaks for next season including Broad Peak, Gasherbrum II & Gasherbrum I, Nanga Parbat & K2 for next summer so we expect to have quit a few of these climbs going!
Spantik will be running in August and we do still have some spaces available and can accept new members til the middle of July. No better first 7000m peak that we know of as it is a full expedition and includes fixed line climbing, roped team climbing, a remote setting and a stunning 8km summit ridge!
Trekking to K2 BC is something that everyone should add to a lifetime list of great places to visit. We have a departure slated for August 1 each year and welcome avid trekkers and climbers!
If you are interested in joining us for a great trip to Pakistan drop us a note at "info@fieldtouring.com" and we'll send you all the info!
For more information on all trips please visit our site www.fieldtouringalpine.com
21 June 2011
 |
| Urdukas camp with the Trango Towers behind © stu remensnyder |
Chris has called in from Goro II and left a great audio disapatch below. In it he shares the latest news from the K2/Broad Peak team. They had a great day trekking in from Urdukas and enjoyed a warm (25°C) day with superb views of Gasherbrum IV, Gasherbrum II, Broad Peak and Masherbrum!
 |
| River crossing near Goro II © stu remensnyder |
In a normal year our team would tromp on up to the famed Concordia camp site and then take a short walk the next morning to Broad Peak BC. For the first time that i know of there is insufficient snow in Concordia and the team will be skipping this campsite on their way to Broad Peak base camp. By the end of last season the snow loss was dramatically greater than in typical years. This was due in large part to the conditions that caused the horrific flooding across great swathes of Pakistan. It remains to be seen how this will play out on the 8000m peaks in the Karakoram and potentially may mean icier or rockier conditions on Broad Peak and K2.
 |
| View to Broad Peak from Concordia © stu remensnyder |
have a listen in below to Chris's dispatch from Goro II!
Spantik will be running in August and we do still have some spaces available and can accept new members til the middle of July. No better first 7000m peak that we know of as it is a full expedition and includes fixed line climbing, roped team climbing, a remote setting and a stunning 8km summit ridge!
Trekking to K2 BC is something that everyone should add to a lifetime list of great places to visit. We have a departure slated for August 1 each year and welcome avid trekkers and climbers!
If you are interested in joining us for a great trip to Pakistan drop us a note at "info@fieldtouring.com" and we'll send you all the info!
For more information on all trips please visit our site www.fieldtouringalpine.com
Friday, June 10, 2011
FTA K2/Broad Peak 2011 getting under way!
June10, 2011
From Stu in the USA office
We have an exciting summer ahead with a team of 17 climbers, guides and HAP's headed to Broad Peak and K2. This trip will be followed up by another great trip to 7027m Spantik so stay tuned all summer!
The K2 & Broad Peak trip officially begins today with members from all over the world arriving in Islamabad though one of our guides, Tim Colquhoun, has been working hard getting gear ready in Skardu. He'll be assisting on Broad Peak and then leading the Spantik team so he's going to get to know the gear room very well!
When Tim has not been too busy with checking out tents, stoves, pts and pans he has enjoyed some travel around Skardu and also up to Hushe where he met famed HAP Little Karim. Tim dropped the following note from dusty Skardu:
From Stu in the USA office
We have an exciting summer ahead with a team of 17 climbers, guides and HAP's headed to Broad Peak and K2. This trip will be followed up by another great trip to 7027m Spantik so stay tuned all summer!
The K2 & Broad Peak trip officially begins today with members from all over the world arriving in Islamabad though one of our guides, Tim Colquhoun, has been working hard getting gear ready in Skardu. He'll be assisting on Broad Peak and then leading the Spantik team so he's going to get to know the gear room very well!
When Tim has not been too busy with checking out tents, stoves, pts and pans he has enjoyed some travel around Skardu and also up to Hushe where he met famed HAP Little Karim. Tim dropped the following note from dusty Skardu:
Thursday, August 12, 2010
K2 2010: C2 Cleared, Leaving BC, Floods and more
From stu in the usa office
12 August 2010
Fabrizio has called in with the very latest news from BC and it looks like FTA will be closing up shop in K2 BC for the summer on the 13th.
After a long summer in the Karakoram we will now turn our attention to upcoming expeditions on Cho Oyu, Ama Dablam, Everest BC, Island Peak, Aconcagua and Ecuador Volcanes. We look forward to a return to Pakistan next year on with Nanga Parbat, Broad Peak, G2, Spantik and K2 BC treks all running.
On K2
Despite a number of climbers (including Fabrizio) who would take another run at the summit, the conditions on the route and the predicted weather are simply not promising for the foreseeable future. We continue to see winds that are high enough in combination with snow, rain and poor visibility that it is hard for Fabrizio to warrant another push. Some climbers (Kazaks) headed a day ago, in hopes of a window, but it took a good 3 hours longer to get to C2, the ropes were in tatters and rock fall continued to be a problem during the day. They have made their way to C3 already now and we wish them a safe passage to the top!
Fabrizio, Aziz and Farhad left this morning at 2:30 am for a “quick run” to C2 to gather there remaining equipment and return to BC before the warmer hours of the day. They had anticipated it might take 4-5 hours up and 1 hour back as it had earlier in the season. Instead they returned nearly 10 hours later and had a very serious effort throughout. The fixed lines are largely destroyed by rock fall and Fabrizio estimated that they had to down-climb some 80% of the route from C2.
Gone are the fine, firm snow and new ice slopes of July and the climbing is now on hard old “ugly” ice. This kind of hard ice requires great attention and is painstaking. Fabrizio said they were all worn out mentally and physically by the time they returned and crashed hard in their tents. Looking over at Broad Peak this afternoon, Fabrizio said that the route was largely rock from C2 to the bottom and in his mind now there is now doubt about climbing again on a Karakoram peak this summer. It is time to make the long journey out and recuperate in time for guiding on Cho Oyu in September, and Ama Dablam & Island Peak in October& November.
These have been difficult days for everyone in BC between the sadness of the loss of Fredrik and further dampened by the hard rain that has fallen for many days. Fabrizio described it as “Seattle rain” which fell for much of the 10th and 11th. A number of the climbers have now left including Gerlinde, Ralf, Trey and others and there are just a few very determined climbers who will remain after Fabrizio, Aziz and Farhad head out tomorrow.
Aziz, Fabrizio and Farhad on Broad Peak© Ben Kane
Askole, Skardu and Islamabad
Meagan is making her way back to Islamabad by way of Skardu while Chris and Brian have already flown to Islamabad. We expect some good reports and images from them when they get a chance. Meagan left an audio dispatch on her way and the link is below:
http://www.meaganmcgrathadventurer.com/Meagan-2010-08-07-11-40.mp3
ExWeb has lots of updates as well and is a great place to keep up on all the other teams on the hill.
http://explorersweb.com/everest_k2/news.php?id=19570
Fabrizio will be putting up a gabcast audio dispatch shortly. The Gabcast folks had a problem with their system and a new number is now set up so we should be hearing from Fabrizio daily as he makes his way back out. The torrential rain fall, which is causing a major tragedy for the Pakitani people, is making the journey out to Skardu a very difficult one with many new landslides and poor road conditions abounding. We’ll all be quite relieved when the last of our crew are home (including very much Aziz and Farhad to their homes in the Shimshal region of Hunza).
Support the Relief Effort
The news of the floods in Pakistan are grim and please consider making contributions to the agencies helping with the relief effort. The UN is looking for some 460 million dollars of donations and please take the time to send in a small (or LARGE) contribution to support these worthy efforts.
http://ochaonline.un.org/OCHAHome/HumanitarianFunding/HowtoDonate/tabid/5845/language/en-US/Default.aspx
The New York times has numerous links from its articles.
http://www.nytimes.com/2010/08/13/world/asia/13pstan.html?ref=asia
http://www.nytimes.com/2010/08/12/world/asia/12nations.html?fta=y
Here is an article from the UN:
http://www.un.org/apps/news/story.asp?NewsID=35593&Cr=pakistan&Cr1=
11 August 2010 – United Nations aid agencies and their partners today requested almost $460 million to help Pakistan assist millions of people affected by floods that have cut a swathe through the country, killing hundreds of people and destroying homes, farmland and major infrastructure.
“We have a huge task in front of us to deliver all that is required as soon as possible,” said John Holmes, UN Emergency Relief Coordinator, at the launch of the humanitarian response plan at UN Headquarters in New York.
“The death toll has so far been relatively low compared to other major natural disasters, but the numbers affected are extraordinarily high. If we don’t act fast enough, many more people could die of diseases and food shortages,” added Mr. Holmes, who is also the Under-Secretary-General for Humanitarian Affairs.
Pakistan estimates that more than 14 million people have now been affected by the emergency, with various degrees of severity.
Shelter is an urgent priority and $105 million of the $459.7 million sought is required to provide tents or plastic sheeting, as well as basic household goods, for an initial target of more than 2 million people, according to the UN Office for the Coordination of Humanitarian Affairs (OCHA).
“We are working round the clock to get these items manufactured and delivered,” said Martin Mogwanja, Humanitarian Coordinator for Pakistan. “I can confidently say that the response could not be any faster.”
More than 65,000 tents have already been delivered, covering at least 450,000 people, along with plastic sheets for an estimated 60,000 people.
Up to 6 million people across the country are in need of food aid which is estimated to cost $150 million, while $5.7 million will be needed to ensure the survival of livestock. The UN World Food Programme (WFP) and its partners have so far delivered more than 4,350 tons of food to at least 370,000 people, including in the remote Swat Valley, which had been cut off from assistance until last week.
Clean water will be provided to approximately 6 million people to prevent the risk of waterborne diseases from emerging. Some $110 million is required to fund efforts to provide water to those affected by the floods. More than 1 million others have already received clean water thanks to the UN Children’s Fund (UNICEF) and its partners.
About $56 million will be required for emergency health care, covering potentially up to 14 million people, while $14 million is needed to ensure proper nutrition for children under the age of five, and for pregnant or lactating women.
Different types of medication have already been delivered for the prevention and treatment of several diseases.
“The response of the international community has so far been encouraging,” said Mr. Holmes. “It is essential that this continues,” he said, adding that “the magnitude of the disaster is sinking into the international community.”
So far, donors have committed or contributed $47 million to the response activities of the UN and its partners, and a further $99.5 million has been pledged. At least $300 million is, however, still urgently needed.
The funds requested under the initial floods emergency response plan will be revised within 30 days to reflect assessed needs as the situation evolves.
Over the course of July and early August, monsoon rainfall caused the worst floods in living memory in Pakistan. Flash floods and river valley floods have devastated large parts of the country causing an estimated 1,200 deaths. At least 288,000 homes have been damaged or destroyed.
In Khyber Pakhtunkhwa (KPK) province, the worst affected region, intense rains during the last week of July and in early August were compounded by the swelling of major rivers due to rainwater surging down from highland areas.
The Pakistan Meteorological Department reported that within one week in late July, KPK received 9,000 millimetres of rainfall – 10 times as much as the province normally receives in the course of an entire year. Balochistan, Pakistan-administered Kashmir and Gilgit Baltistan, also experienced extreme weather, resulting in widespread loss and damage.
By early August, flood waters breached the river bank in at least eight districts of Punjab, inundating homes and destroying crops and livestock. At least eight million people in Punjab have been affected by the disaster. Flooding has spread to the southern province of Sindh.
In light of the devastation caused by the floods and the ongoing threat to lives and livelihoods, the Government, through its National Disaster Management Authority, requested UN agencies and the wider humanitarian community prepare an initial floods emergency response plan.
Considering the scale of the area hit by the floods, the number of people in need of assistance is expected to rise as assessments continue and access improves. The combined population of the affected districts is around 43 million, out of Pakistan’s total estimated population of 168 million.
Response efforts have been hampered by limited access to areas with destroyed infrastructure. “Access difficulties have been mainly physical. We are trying to use any possible means of delivery, from helicopters to donkeys,” Mr. Holmes told reporters after the launch of the plan.
Insecurity in some of the affected areas – especially parts of KPK – remains unpredictable.
UN agencies, non-governmental organizations (NGOs) and the International Organization for Migration (IOM) are planning to assist vulnerable flood-affected people in up to seven different geographical areas – Balochistan, Punjab, the Federally Administered Tribal Area, Gilgit Baltistan, KPK, Pakistan-administered Kashmir and Sindh.
12 August 2010
Fabrizio has called in with the very latest news from BC and it looks like FTA will be closing up shop in K2 BC for the summer on the 13th.
After a long summer in the Karakoram we will now turn our attention to upcoming expeditions on Cho Oyu, Ama Dablam, Everest BC, Island Peak, Aconcagua and Ecuador Volcanes. We look forward to a return to Pakistan next year on with Nanga Parbat, Broad Peak, G2, Spantik and K2 BC treks all running.
On K2
Despite a number of climbers (including Fabrizio) who would take another run at the summit, the conditions on the route and the predicted weather are simply not promising for the foreseeable future. We continue to see winds that are high enough in combination with snow, rain and poor visibility that it is hard for Fabrizio to warrant another push. Some climbers (Kazaks) headed a day ago, in hopes of a window, but it took a good 3 hours longer to get to C2, the ropes were in tatters and rock fall continued to be a problem during the day. They have made their way to C3 already now and we wish them a safe passage to the top!
Fabrizio, Aziz and Farhad left this morning at 2:30 am for a “quick run” to C2 to gather there remaining equipment and return to BC before the warmer hours of the day. They had anticipated it might take 4-5 hours up and 1 hour back as it had earlier in the season. Instead they returned nearly 10 hours later and had a very serious effort throughout. The fixed lines are largely destroyed by rock fall and Fabrizio estimated that they had to down-climb some 80% of the route from C2.
Gone are the fine, firm snow and new ice slopes of July and the climbing is now on hard old “ugly” ice. This kind of hard ice requires great attention and is painstaking. Fabrizio said they were all worn out mentally and physically by the time they returned and crashed hard in their tents. Looking over at Broad Peak this afternoon, Fabrizio said that the route was largely rock from C2 to the bottom and in his mind now there is now doubt about climbing again on a Karakoram peak this summer. It is time to make the long journey out and recuperate in time for guiding on Cho Oyu in September, and Ama Dablam & Island Peak in October& November.
These have been difficult days for everyone in BC between the sadness of the loss of Fredrik and further dampened by the hard rain that has fallen for many days. Fabrizio described it as “Seattle rain” which fell for much of the 10th and 11th. A number of the climbers have now left including Gerlinde, Ralf, Trey and others and there are just a few very determined climbers who will remain after Fabrizio, Aziz and Farhad head out tomorrow.
Aziz, Fabrizio and Farhad on Broad Peak© Ben Kane
Askole, Skardu and Islamabad
Meagan is making her way back to Islamabad by way of Skardu while Chris and Brian have already flown to Islamabad. We expect some good reports and images from them when they get a chance. Meagan left an audio dispatch on her way and the link is below:
http://www.meaganmcgrathadventurer.com/Meagan-2010-08-07-11-40.mp3
ExWeb has lots of updates as well and is a great place to keep up on all the other teams on the hill.
http://explorersweb.com/everest_k2/news.php?id=19570
Fabrizio will be putting up a gabcast audio dispatch shortly. The Gabcast folks had a problem with their system and a new number is now set up so we should be hearing from Fabrizio daily as he makes his way back out. The torrential rain fall, which is causing a major tragedy for the Pakitani people, is making the journey out to Skardu a very difficult one with many new landslides and poor road conditions abounding. We’ll all be quite relieved when the last of our crew are home (including very much Aziz and Farhad to their homes in the Shimshal region of Hunza).
Support the Relief Effort
The news of the floods in Pakistan are grim and please consider making contributions to the agencies helping with the relief effort. The UN is looking for some 460 million dollars of donations and please take the time to send in a small (or LARGE) contribution to support these worthy efforts.
http://ochaonline.un.org/OCHAHome/HumanitarianFunding/HowtoDonate/tabid/5845/language/en-US/Default.aspx
The New York times has numerous links from its articles.
http://www.nytimes.com/2010/08/13/world/asia/13pstan.html?ref=asia
http://www.nytimes.com/2010/08/12/world/asia/12nations.html?fta=y
Here is an article from the UN:
http://www.un.org/apps/news/story.asp?NewsID=35593&Cr=pakistan&Cr1=
11 August 2010 – United Nations aid agencies and their partners today requested almost $460 million to help Pakistan assist millions of people affected by floods that have cut a swathe through the country, killing hundreds of people and destroying homes, farmland and major infrastructure.
“We have a huge task in front of us to deliver all that is required as soon as possible,” said John Holmes, UN Emergency Relief Coordinator, at the launch of the humanitarian response plan at UN Headquarters in New York.
“The death toll has so far been relatively low compared to other major natural disasters, but the numbers affected are extraordinarily high. If we don’t act fast enough, many more people could die of diseases and food shortages,” added Mr. Holmes, who is also the Under-Secretary-General for Humanitarian Affairs.
Pakistan estimates that more than 14 million people have now been affected by the emergency, with various degrees of severity.
Shelter is an urgent priority and $105 million of the $459.7 million sought is required to provide tents or plastic sheeting, as well as basic household goods, for an initial target of more than 2 million people, according to the UN Office for the Coordination of Humanitarian Affairs (OCHA).
“We are working round the clock to get these items manufactured and delivered,” said Martin Mogwanja, Humanitarian Coordinator for Pakistan. “I can confidently say that the response could not be any faster.”
More than 65,000 tents have already been delivered, covering at least 450,000 people, along with plastic sheets for an estimated 60,000 people.
Up to 6 million people across the country are in need of food aid which is estimated to cost $150 million, while $5.7 million will be needed to ensure the survival of livestock. The UN World Food Programme (WFP) and its partners have so far delivered more than 4,350 tons of food to at least 370,000 people, including in the remote Swat Valley, which had been cut off from assistance until last week.
Clean water will be provided to approximately 6 million people to prevent the risk of waterborne diseases from emerging. Some $110 million is required to fund efforts to provide water to those affected by the floods. More than 1 million others have already received clean water thanks to the UN Children’s Fund (UNICEF) and its partners.
About $56 million will be required for emergency health care, covering potentially up to 14 million people, while $14 million is needed to ensure proper nutrition for children under the age of five, and for pregnant or lactating women.
Different types of medication have already been delivered for the prevention and treatment of several diseases.
“The response of the international community has so far been encouraging,” said Mr. Holmes. “It is essential that this continues,” he said, adding that “the magnitude of the disaster is sinking into the international community.”
So far, donors have committed or contributed $47 million to the response activities of the UN and its partners, and a further $99.5 million has been pledged. At least $300 million is, however, still urgently needed.
The funds requested under the initial floods emergency response plan will be revised within 30 days to reflect assessed needs as the situation evolves.
Over the course of July and early August, monsoon rainfall caused the worst floods in living memory in Pakistan. Flash floods and river valley floods have devastated large parts of the country causing an estimated 1,200 deaths. At least 288,000 homes have been damaged or destroyed.
In Khyber Pakhtunkhwa (KPK) province, the worst affected region, intense rains during the last week of July and in early August were compounded by the swelling of major rivers due to rainwater surging down from highland areas.
The Pakistan Meteorological Department reported that within one week in late July, KPK received 9,000 millimetres of rainfall – 10 times as much as the province normally receives in the course of an entire year. Balochistan, Pakistan-administered Kashmir and Gilgit Baltistan, also experienced extreme weather, resulting in widespread loss and damage.
By early August, flood waters breached the river bank in at least eight districts of Punjab, inundating homes and destroying crops and livestock. At least eight million people in Punjab have been affected by the disaster. Flooding has spread to the southern province of Sindh.
In light of the devastation caused by the floods and the ongoing threat to lives and livelihoods, the Government, through its National Disaster Management Authority, requested UN agencies and the wider humanitarian community prepare an initial floods emergency response plan.
Considering the scale of the area hit by the floods, the number of people in need of assistance is expected to rise as assessments continue and access improves. The combined population of the affected districts is around 43 million, out of Pakistan’s total estimated population of 168 million.
Response efforts have been hampered by limited access to areas with destroyed infrastructure. “Access difficulties have been mainly physical. We are trying to use any possible means of delivery, from helicopters to donkeys,” Mr. Holmes told reporters after the launch of the plan.
Insecurity in some of the affected areas – especially parts of KPK – remains unpredictable.
UN agencies, non-governmental organizations (NGOs) and the International Organization for Migration (IOM) are planning to assist vulnerable flood-affected people in up to seven different geographical areas – Balochistan, Punjab, the Federally Administered Tribal Area, Gilgit Baltistan, KPK, Pakistan-administered Kashmir and Sindh.
Monday, August 2, 2010
K2 2010 Second Summit Push Under way!
From stu in the usa office
August 2, 2010
Fabrizio has called in from BC with the latest plan for a summit bid and if all goes well they will try to summit on the 6th of August. The plan is to leave at 4am on the 3rd and head to C2 to begin the push. From our team Fabrizio and Meagan are in great position and looking forward to the climb. They will be joined on the push by a number of other climbers who they have been working the route with. The winds are forecasted to be below 20km/hr for the 4th through the 8th and, while there will be a lot of cloud cover, it appears to be just a few dustings of snow along the way. We’ll hope they have reasonable visibility but Fabrizio has 25 wands in the high camp ready to be placed to aid in any problems with finding the route on descent.
Chris was to join the push but he became pretty sick with GI illness and was sapped of the strength needed to try a summit bid. Rather than try to recuperate at BC he made the smart choice to go lower and head back to Skardu. Brian joined him with urgent business calling him hope unexpectedly. Both were were extremely disappointed as just 4-5 days ago they were stoked for the climb - acclimatized, feeling strong and rested. We are really sorry to see them go and Fabrizio and Meagan will miss them on the push.
Aziz and Farhad will be prepared to support Meagan and Fabrizio on the descent and clearing camps if the summit bid is successful. If not successful then Fabrizio and a number of the climbers plan to stay for at least one more summit bid. Fabrizio, Gerlinde and others have been to the mountain multiple times and want to stay as long as they can. Fabrizio has now spent more than a year of his life at K2 BC over the course of his trips and must feel as at home there as anywhere on the planet. He will be making his 11th climb to the shoulder on this run up the mountain and I am pretty sure he want to avoid a 12th this year!
The latest audio dispatch is below and Fabrizio will plan to leave a Gabcast each day and we’ll post it here.
Gabcast! Listen to all the Field Touring Alpine Audio Dispatches at Gabcast
We’ll have an update tomorrow on our members who are trekking out to Skardu and those trying to get to Islamabad. The floods and landslides that have claimed some 800 or more lives are wreaking havoc with ground transportation including the drive from Askole to Skardu. At this time there are military C-130 planes helping to fly people from Skardu to Islamabad so our members and gear will hopefully bypass the roads.
This is a major tragedy for people living in many parts of Pakistan and we are mindful that any inconveniences we have are just that. Being stuck for a few days in a hotel in Skardu or awaiting bags at home pales in comparison to living in a remote town with little clean water, food supplies running low and home having been washed away.
See the links below more information on the situation
http://www.nytimes.com/2010/08/01/world/asia/01pstan.html?_r=1&scp=4&sq=pakistan&st=cse
http://explorersweb.com/world/news.php?id=19553
August 2, 2010
Fabrizio has called in from BC with the latest plan for a summit bid and if all goes well they will try to summit on the 6th of August. The plan is to leave at 4am on the 3rd and head to C2 to begin the push. From our team Fabrizio and Meagan are in great position and looking forward to the climb. They will be joined on the push by a number of other climbers who they have been working the route with. The winds are forecasted to be below 20km/hr for the 4th through the 8th and, while there will be a lot of cloud cover, it appears to be just a few dustings of snow along the way. We’ll hope they have reasonable visibility but Fabrizio has 25 wands in the high camp ready to be placed to aid in any problems with finding the route on descent.
Chris was to join the push but he became pretty sick with GI illness and was sapped of the strength needed to try a summit bid. Rather than try to recuperate at BC he made the smart choice to go lower and head back to Skardu. Brian joined him with urgent business calling him hope unexpectedly. Both were were extremely disappointed as just 4-5 days ago they were stoked for the climb - acclimatized, feeling strong and rested. We are really sorry to see them go and Fabrizio and Meagan will miss them on the push.
Aziz and Farhad will be prepared to support Meagan and Fabrizio on the descent and clearing camps if the summit bid is successful. If not successful then Fabrizio and a number of the climbers plan to stay for at least one more summit bid. Fabrizio, Gerlinde and others have been to the mountain multiple times and want to stay as long as they can. Fabrizio has now spent more than a year of his life at K2 BC over the course of his trips and must feel as at home there as anywhere on the planet. He will be making his 11th climb to the shoulder on this run up the mountain and I am pretty sure he want to avoid a 12th this year!
The latest audio dispatch is below and Fabrizio will plan to leave a Gabcast each day and we’ll post it here.
Gabcast! Listen to all the Field Touring Alpine Audio Dispatches at Gabcast
We’ll have an update tomorrow on our members who are trekking out to Skardu and those trying to get to Islamabad. The floods and landslides that have claimed some 800 or more lives are wreaking havoc with ground transportation including the drive from Askole to Skardu. At this time there are military C-130 planes helping to fly people from Skardu to Islamabad so our members and gear will hopefully bypass the roads.
This is a major tragedy for people living in many parts of Pakistan and we are mindful that any inconveniences we have are just that. Being stuck for a few days in a hotel in Skardu or awaiting bags at home pales in comparison to living in a remote town with little clean water, food supplies running low and home having been washed away.
See the links below more information on the situation
http://www.nytimes.com/2010/08/01/world/asia/01pstan.html?_r=1&scp=4&sq=pakistan&st=cse
http://explorersweb.com/world/news.php?id=19553
Wednesday, July 28, 2010
Broad Peak 2010 Trek report
from Ben Kane in Islamabad
July 28, 2010
Myself, Rob, Jo, Mike and Ian hiked out from Broad Peak Base Camp on the 20th of July. We were joined by our talented cook and guide Deedar and seven strong porters, heading for Skardu by way of the Gondogoro La, a snowy high pass of about 5600m. This route breaks away at Concordia, heading south towards Chogolisa, passing the Gasherbrums along the way.
After hiking for 8hrs on snow, ice and moraine we came to Ali Camp, nestled in a rocky outcrop overlooking a huge glacial basin. We took a few hours rest and enjoyed Deedar's spicy meal of chili yak and chapatis, complimented by warming chai.
We woke at 2am to the sound of snow on the tent, but to our relief it was rather warm once we got moving. Walking by headlamp at night never ceases to inspire me, a totally different world, with the sound of the snow crunching under our feet, spindrift blowing in your eyes. As the dawn approached we caught sight of the pass ahead of us, a steep passage between even steeper slopes. We were joined by 2 members of the Gondogoro Rescue team - there to ensure the fixed ropes are in place and secure.
Our views were limited upon reaching the top of the pass, low lying cloud but with the morning sun breaking through in places offered us a glimmer of hope for the remaining 8hrs of hiking still ahead of us. The far side of the pass is much steeper and we made good use of the fixed ropes. As we approached the snow line down the valley Rob and I stopped, hearing a mighty avalanche on the other side of the valley. This continued for nearly 2 minutes, and at last came spewing down out of the mist. Knowing we were on safe ground, we stood there and took in an amazing sight. This was by far the largest avalanche I have ever witnessed.
At the bottom the valley we huddled in a small stone hut, where we enjoyed a hot breakfast of eggs, paratha (fried chapatis) and more warming chai. This set us in good stead, as the next 8 hours consisted of hopping, skipping and jumping our way across a maze of glaciers and down a winding valley.
Cresting a ridge, we finally caught a glimpse of Saicho, the beautiful oasis-like camp where we to spend a much anticipated night in the richer, moisture-filled filled air. Coming down into Saicho your senses are bombarded, the sound of the streams cascading and the birds chirping, the smell of juniper and rhododendron flowering and the sight of so much green...plants living and thriving, unlike the bleakness of the Godwin-Austin glacier, where our home has been for the past month.
The next morning we had an early start arrived at Hushe in time for breakfast and ready to jump into the jeeps for our drive to Skardu. During the 5hr drive we were able to reflect on our time on Broad Peak, and prepare to head back into our 'real' lives back home. Each expedition is a holistic experience, taxing mentally, physically and emotionally and we take so much away from these times.
All the best to our remaining team on K2, and thank you to everyone involved in our 2010 Field Touring Alpine Broad Peak K2 Expedition.
Pic is overlooking Saicho.
July 28, 2010
Myself, Rob, Jo, Mike and Ian hiked out from Broad Peak Base Camp on the 20th of July. We were joined by our talented cook and guide Deedar and seven strong porters, heading for Skardu by way of the Gondogoro La, a snowy high pass of about 5600m. This route breaks away at Concordia, heading south towards Chogolisa, passing the Gasherbrums along the way.
After hiking for 8hrs on snow, ice and moraine we came to Ali Camp, nestled in a rocky outcrop overlooking a huge glacial basin. We took a few hours rest and enjoyed Deedar's spicy meal of chili yak and chapatis, complimented by warming chai.
We woke at 2am to the sound of snow on the tent, but to our relief it was rather warm once we got moving. Walking by headlamp at night never ceases to inspire me, a totally different world, with the sound of the snow crunching under our feet, spindrift blowing in your eyes. As the dawn approached we caught sight of the pass ahead of us, a steep passage between even steeper slopes. We were joined by 2 members of the Gondogoro Rescue team - there to ensure the fixed ropes are in place and secure.
Our views were limited upon reaching the top of the pass, low lying cloud but with the morning sun breaking through in places offered us a glimmer of hope for the remaining 8hrs of hiking still ahead of us. The far side of the pass is much steeper and we made good use of the fixed ropes. As we approached the snow line down the valley Rob and I stopped, hearing a mighty avalanche on the other side of the valley. This continued for nearly 2 minutes, and at last came spewing down out of the mist. Knowing we were on safe ground, we stood there and took in an amazing sight. This was by far the largest avalanche I have ever witnessed.
At the bottom the valley we huddled in a small stone hut, where we enjoyed a hot breakfast of eggs, paratha (fried chapatis) and more warming chai. This set us in good stead, as the next 8 hours consisted of hopping, skipping and jumping our way across a maze of glaciers and down a winding valley.
Cresting a ridge, we finally caught a glimpse of Saicho, the beautiful oasis-like camp where we to spend a much anticipated night in the richer, moisture-filled filled air. Coming down into Saicho your senses are bombarded, the sound of the streams cascading and the birds chirping, the smell of juniper and rhododendron flowering and the sight of so much green...plants living and thriving, unlike the bleakness of the Godwin-Austin glacier, where our home has been for the past month.
The next morning we had an early start arrived at Hushe in time for breakfast and ready to jump into the jeeps for our drive to Skardu. During the 5hr drive we were able to reflect on our time on Broad Peak, and prepare to head back into our 'real' lives back home. Each expedition is a holistic experience, taxing mentally, physically and emotionally and we take so much away from these times.
All the best to our remaining team on K2, and thank you to everyone involved in our 2010 Field Touring Alpine Broad Peak K2 Expedition.
Pic is overlooking Saicho.
Saturday, July 17, 2010
Broad Peak Summit Bid Over: Team safe in C3!
July 17, 2010
From stu in the usa office
Broad Peak Summit Bid called below the Col
Fabrizio called in from C3 (at about 10am local time) to let us know that the entire summit team was safe and sound and back in C3 after a great effort on the mountain. The snow conditions were apparently very bad and largely unconsolidated sugar snow. As they neared the col (perhaps 100m below) they felt a shift in the snow pack and made the decision to call it a day with the risk level simply unacceptable. Armed with more than 300m of rope they had brought for the summit ridge they were able to secure the descent quite safely and returned to C3 without mishap. A few of the other teams also turned about or had done so earlier while Fabrizio reported that a few very experienced climbers had continued on at that point. We’ll have more details when the team checks in again at the end of the day.
We spoke only for a few minutes as they were making preparations to clear camp 3 and begin the descent to BC. With Ed, Garth, Aziz and Farhad coming up to help they hope to clear out the mountain between today and tomorrow. As the weather becomes dangerously windy for a number of days the “Broad Peak only” folks have run out of time on the mountain and will head out on the 23rd or 24th after resting up for a few days. With planes to catch and lives to return to there simply is not any room to maneuver for several of them. A few of the Broad Peak only folks may opt to extend their stay as our permit on Broad Peak remains in force until the second week in August. Additionally some of our double team may come back over for an alpine run at the hill…we’ll see!
Rambling Reflections on Defeat
I have been thinking what to write if they had topped out and it would certainly have included a Norwegian first for Jo, a second 8000m summit for Chris in a short span (he topped out on Cho Oyu in May), a first 8000m summit for Ben and much more. It would have been fun!
Instead we have too look beyond the idea of the summit as a rationale for these long and demanding expeditions. For some it will be a last 8000m climb and serve as a memory bank for waking on hot summer days and daydreaming of crisp crunchy snow and views to the world below. For others it will be one more arrow in their climbing quiver to be brought out and used on another climb. Some small lesson gleaned from this experience will tip the balance in their favor in the years ahead to enable them to top out or return safely.
During expeditions I am often in contact with friends and family of climbers and we engage in often rich philosophical conversation about why their loved ones are off on these mountains. This year one member’s partner wrote to me “it is not successes in life that define a person. It is how they overcome defeat. I have yet to find a person of great accomplish or success that does not have these qualities” I am sure she is right and if anyone exemplifies this it would be Messner who
I watched a great documentary on Messner by Outside TV recently and it is hard to keep track of the times that Messer turned around on climbs knowing he was not yet ready. Each time he tried something new and unknown (like soloing Nanga Parbat or Everest!) he learned something new about himself and at the same time expressed himself and felt these were the reasons to climb. Not for the summit, not for someone else, but for expanding his own horizon and learning more about himself. These lessons and experiences enabled him (along with unmatched willpower) to go on to accomplish great things in mountaineering, adventuring and politics. I like that he hopes for each generation to enjoy the unknown and to wonder about the possible. He expresses an additional wish that the tracks of those who came before to be covered by wind and snow so that each young explorer to refind it for themselves.
Viestur’s writes early in his book on K2: “ Don’t ever do that again, if you want to stay alive. Listen to you instincts, and follow them.” (p4) He had gone on to the top along with Charlie Mace and Scott Fisher against his own inner doubts and notes it as the biggest mistake he made in mountaineering. He ascribes his error to pure indecision. Unable to decide to go up or down he followed the energy of the other two climbers. (To fans of the band Rush then the line “if you choose not to decide you still have made a choice!” may serve well!) He carried this experience and lesson with him on every expedition after and hard to know how many times that one arrow kept him out of harms way.
We each carry stories in our mind while we climb. The simpler and clearer they are, the more useful they are at high altitude, when hypoxia, cold and exhaustion robs us of our cognitive skills. Fabrizio, Chris and Ben bring with them many years of climbing on 8000m peaks and between them carry a wealth of small stories to help guide them to good choices. Our members have also come well armed - with years of climbing included trips to Everest and K2 among them.
In this case our team has had a great reason to turn about, listened to their inner stories, made the decision and followed their instincts. I am proud of the leadership, teamwork and prudence of our guides and members. They worked as a team to push the route and then agreed as a group to call the push and descend together. Well done!
We’ll have a larger update on the details of the summit bid in the next 24 hours to stay tuned!
Upcoming Climbs Confirmed
While the team has been on the hill we have had quite a few signups for trips ahead and now have the following trips confirmed with spaces remaining. Join FTA for one of these great trips!
• Ama dablam Oct 15 and Nov 4
• Everest BC and Island Peak Oct 15
• Cho Oyu 2010 confirmed with Fabrizio
None of these fit your schedule? We offer custom trips to all of these peaks and more! Write to us at info@fieldtouring.com
K2 Next
Exweb published a great history of K2 (www.explorersweb.com) as as we now begin to turn our energies to the “big mo-fo” it will be well worth the read. Also pick up a copy of Ed Viesturs K2 book for very genuine insight on expeditions to K2!
Final Quote
The mountains have rules. They are harsh rules, but they are there, and if you keep to them you are safe. A mountain is not like men. A mountain is sincere. The weapons to conquer it exist inside you, inside your soul." Walter Bonnatti
From stu in the usa office
Broad Peak Summit Bid called below the Col
Fabrizio called in from C3 (at about 10am local time) to let us know that the entire summit team was safe and sound and back in C3 after a great effort on the mountain. The snow conditions were apparently very bad and largely unconsolidated sugar snow. As they neared the col (perhaps 100m below) they felt a shift in the snow pack and made the decision to call it a day with the risk level simply unacceptable. Armed with more than 300m of rope they had brought for the summit ridge they were able to secure the descent quite safely and returned to C3 without mishap. A few of the other teams also turned about or had done so earlier while Fabrizio reported that a few very experienced climbers had continued on at that point. We’ll have more details when the team checks in again at the end of the day.
We spoke only for a few minutes as they were making preparations to clear camp 3 and begin the descent to BC. With Ed, Garth, Aziz and Farhad coming up to help they hope to clear out the mountain between today and tomorrow. As the weather becomes dangerously windy for a number of days the “Broad Peak only” folks have run out of time on the mountain and will head out on the 23rd or 24th after resting up for a few days. With planes to catch and lives to return to there simply is not any room to maneuver for several of them. A few of the Broad Peak only folks may opt to extend their stay as our permit on Broad Peak remains in force until the second week in August. Additionally some of our double team may come back over for an alpine run at the hill…we’ll see!
Rambling Reflections on Defeat
I have been thinking what to write if they had topped out and it would certainly have included a Norwegian first for Jo, a second 8000m summit for Chris in a short span (he topped out on Cho Oyu in May), a first 8000m summit for Ben and much more. It would have been fun!
Instead we have too look beyond the idea of the summit as a rationale for these long and demanding expeditions. For some it will be a last 8000m climb and serve as a memory bank for waking on hot summer days and daydreaming of crisp crunchy snow and views to the world below. For others it will be one more arrow in their climbing quiver to be brought out and used on another climb. Some small lesson gleaned from this experience will tip the balance in their favor in the years ahead to enable them to top out or return safely.
During expeditions I am often in contact with friends and family of climbers and we engage in often rich philosophical conversation about why their loved ones are off on these mountains. This year one member’s partner wrote to me “it is not successes in life that define a person. It is how they overcome defeat. I have yet to find a person of great accomplish or success that does not have these qualities” I am sure she is right and if anyone exemplifies this it would be Messner who
I watched a great documentary on Messner by Outside TV recently and it is hard to keep track of the times that Messer turned around on climbs knowing he was not yet ready. Each time he tried something new and unknown (like soloing Nanga Parbat or Everest!) he learned something new about himself and at the same time expressed himself and felt these were the reasons to climb. Not for the summit, not for someone else, but for expanding his own horizon and learning more about himself. These lessons and experiences enabled him (along with unmatched willpower) to go on to accomplish great things in mountaineering, adventuring and politics. I like that he hopes for each generation to enjoy the unknown and to wonder about the possible. He expresses an additional wish that the tracks of those who came before to be covered by wind and snow so that each young explorer to refind it for themselves.
Viestur’s writes early in his book on K2: “ Don’t ever do that again, if you want to stay alive. Listen to you instincts, and follow them.” (p4) He had gone on to the top along with Charlie Mace and Scott Fisher against his own inner doubts and notes it as the biggest mistake he made in mountaineering. He ascribes his error to pure indecision. Unable to decide to go up or down he followed the energy of the other two climbers. (To fans of the band Rush then the line “if you choose not to decide you still have made a choice!” may serve well!) He carried this experience and lesson with him on every expedition after and hard to know how many times that one arrow kept him out of harms way.
We each carry stories in our mind while we climb. The simpler and clearer they are, the more useful they are at high altitude, when hypoxia, cold and exhaustion robs us of our cognitive skills. Fabrizio, Chris and Ben bring with them many years of climbing on 8000m peaks and between them carry a wealth of small stories to help guide them to good choices. Our members have also come well armed - with years of climbing included trips to Everest and K2 among them.
In this case our team has had a great reason to turn about, listened to their inner stories, made the decision and followed their instincts. I am proud of the leadership, teamwork and prudence of our guides and members. They worked as a team to push the route and then agreed as a group to call the push and descend together. Well done!
We’ll have a larger update on the details of the summit bid in the next 24 hours to stay tuned!
Upcoming Climbs Confirmed
While the team has been on the hill we have had quite a few signups for trips ahead and now have the following trips confirmed with spaces remaining. Join FTA for one of these great trips!
• Ama dablam Oct 15 and Nov 4
• Everest BC and Island Peak Oct 15
• Cho Oyu 2010 confirmed with Fabrizio
None of these fit your schedule? We offer custom trips to all of these peaks and more! Write to us at info@fieldtouring.com
K2 Next
Exweb published a great history of K2 (www.explorersweb.com) as as we now begin to turn our energies to the “big mo-fo” it will be well worth the read. Also pick up a copy of Ed Viesturs K2 book for very genuine insight on expeditions to K2!
Final Quote
The mountains have rules. They are harsh rules, but they are there, and if you keep to them you are safe. A mountain is not like men. A mountain is sincere. The weapons to conquer it exist inside you, inside your soul." Walter Bonnatti
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)