Aconcagua January 2009 Expeditions Under Way!

Our January 10 to 31, 2009 Aconcagua expeditions are under way
and you can follow all the news at
http://www.fieldtouring.com/dispatches/aconcagua_2009.php

We have a 4 member team led by Sean James heading up the Polish
Glacier and 12 member team led by Ben Kane and Chris Szymiec on
the False Polish climb. With a brand new BC set up and brand new
Eureka! tents we are set for a great trip and look forward to a
great trip!

We have some spots open still for our Feb 5 - 26 departures so
let us know! If you are interested email to stu@fieldtouring.com

Enjoy!

Stu, Dave and the gang at FTA

New route on Ama?

Some have been calling it a new route. Some more accurately a variation to the standard SW ridge on Ama Dablam. Personally, after only being up there three years in a row and far from an expert, I believe the route below the Dablam is just inching it's way to the right every year.

The Dablam is no doubt getting smaller and with that, the face below it is becoming more scoured. Far more rock and hard ice are now exposed but the line is essentially the same. I've never seen such a mess of old, older and ancient lines before. The photo hardly does it justice.

In the future I foresee more of the same. It will take a strong collaboration between teams to push a line around the Dablam. Hats off to to boys who did it this year. Very strong climbing indeed.

With all that said. The SW ridge on Ama Dablam is about as classic as a route can be. The variation of climbing. Rock, ice, snow and mixed; combined with the mental exposure on one of the worlds most beautiful peaks makes Ama Dablam a must climb. All of the worlds peaks are are slowly falling apart, that's why they are so beautiful. The question is: How do we get up to their top's and back down safely? Care, teamwork, skill and most of all, a small ego. Maybe walking before one runs?

Chris

November team back at base camp...

...and we summited!

(photo: James Bingham rounding the dablam in blistering winds)

Zangbu Sherpa, Damian, Neal, James, Chris & Lahkpa Sherpa summited 6856m Ama Dablam at apx 12 noon on November 23.

Everyone is now back at base camp feeling exhausted but elated at the success of our big climb. The route was tough this year. High winds, bullet proof ice and cold temps made for an exciting push from the new camp 3. (see 'New route on Ama?' post)

After acclimatizing on Island Peak, we rested for a day in BC. We then moved to c1 and slept. Next we carried some gear to c2 and descended back to c2 Then up to c3 and to the summit the next day and back to c3. Yesterday we descended to base and here we are.

I have to mention once again how important and necessary the help of our local Sherpa staff was. Tsering, Pasang, Zangbu & Lahkpa worked so hard and without them, the climb would have been a totally different story. I'd love to hear more praise for these guys and girls. These unsung heroes always seem to get the generic "...and Sherpa" mention. Also, Nima Sherpa, from Su Swagatam trek, our local operator who runs our local logistics and so so much more. Hats off to anyone who climbs without Sherpa support on these big hills. Very proud indeed.

Anyway, Neal, Dale, Damian, Noel & James are headed over to climb Lobuche in a couple of days with Lahkpa & Zangbu in the lead. My seemingly endless drive seems to have ended. And, along with a few frozen digits, I am in desperate need of some rest below 4000m. Nothing serious, just a sign that after 6 months on expedition, it's time for some, pardon the pun, down time.

Chris from Ama Dablam base camp.

We're headed for the top!

Photo: Ama Dablam base camp at 6pm this evening. Sorry for the poor quality

Island Peak Summits and on to Ama Dablam

photo: Dale Cottam approaching the summit of Island Peak 6186M (Chris Szymiec)

The November Ama Dablam team summited Island Peak yesterday morning at about 8am. Everyone is feeling great and we are now headed for Ama Dablam base camp. Island Peak was a very busy place yesterday and despite a lot of egos, inexperienced climbers and territorial sherpas, we managed to stay focused and have an amazing day in the hills. Leave the egos at home people, have fun and play safe. And, for future reference, when you decide to take down a fixed line, please be sure no one is rapping on it!!!

We are now acclimitized and hope to make a swift and safe summit push after a day or so of rest. We have camps 1 & 2 established and will be also setting a camp 3 in a safer spot lower on the mushroom ridge. I likely wont be able to write again until we are back at BC so please stay tuned.

Chris from Dingboche.