Field Touring Alpine guides Chris Szymiec, Sean James and Josh Kass summited Tharpui Chulli at 10am on September 26th.
Josh and I left high camp at 4am and were later met by Sean and Dorje Sherpa who were intending to fix the snow face for the rest of the FTA members. We soloed up the 50 degree snow face while Sean ran out 200 meters of rope right up behind us. Once on the ridge we managed to convince Sean to tag the top with us (and break trail). The three of us stood on top at 10 am and were back at high camp by 1 pm for a nice lunch.
The rest of the FTA team and Sean, were planning on heading up the following morning. They had great weather but i have no word on their summit push as of today. Josh and I went from the summit all the way to Annapurna Base Camp in a knee banging 16 hour push! This included breaking down high camp moving all of our gear back to Annapurna camp.
It was a tough climb for Josh and I. Despite the relatively low elevation of 5663 meters, we didn't have the luxury of a porters to carry our gear up the mountain for us. It was a great experience being totally self sufficient on the hill.
Chris from Pokarha.
Tuesday, September 30, 2008
summit push!!!
A very quick call from Stu tonight, reception was terrible, I could barely understand him.
Stu, Ben, Justin, Lingve, Ipalo, Guy, Kit, Lhakpa and Tsering are at camp 2 tonight and will be heading for the summit tomorrow! John may try to join them. Eric, Ian and Antonin are back at base camp. All are ok. More soon.
Nicole (Stu's wife)
_________________________________________________________________
Wednesday, September 24, 2008
Camp 2 established!!!
News sent from Stu.
All are well at various spots on the mountain. Lhakpa, Tsering, Stu, Italo, Lyngve and Justin are at camp 2 for the night of the 24th. Beb and Guy H slept at camp 2 on the 23rd. All will head down to base camp on the 25th for a few days of rest in preparation for the summit push. Antonin, Kit and Erik are still on their acclimatizing schedule. Much more news to come in the next few days.
Nicole
_________________________________________________________________
Saturday, September 20, 2008
Cho Oyu C1 Established
First and most importantly our entire team - staff and members - are safe and sound in one place or another on the hill. We have been having some technical challenges which are now resolved and we hope to have more detailed notes in the weeks ahead.
On the 20th all of our team ws in ABC enjoying an afternoon of cards, wilderness medicine classes, soups and hot drinks, except for Anthony and Sonam two camps below in CBC. Anthony had not been acclimatizing well at ABC and descended to CBC with Sonam for a few days and they are already headed back up and are expected on the 22nd.
We have had a great run on the hill after our arrival on the 15th. To arrive required spending the 12th and 13th acclimatizing at Chinese BC (4700m) with a great day walk to 5400m, an easy 4- 5 hr road walk to Intermediate BC (5200m) on the 14th, and finally a much more demanding 5-6hr morraine climb to our home for the next 23 days.
After a rest day on the 16th Lyngve, Guy H,Justin, John, Guy L, Italo,Tsering, Lhakpa and Ian took a load carry to C1 at 6400m and returned with tales of steep scree slopes and slippery morraines. Ben, Erik, Kit and Stu made their load carries on the 17th and cinfirmed the beauty of the climb and the treacherously icy walk back.
Lyngve, italo and Justin spent a horrible night at C1 on the 18th with winds which destroyed tents for a few teams and left us making repairs of our own. We kindly refer to one of our tents now as frankenstein!
After waiting out the wind for a day we are now returning to the hill with Kit, John, Stu, Ben, Guy H and Guy L headed up today (21st) and most of the rest tomorrow. Antonin will have to see how he feels when he gets back and make a plan then. Erik has a bit of a cold and may delay coming up by a day. We hope to all have 2-3 nights in C1 and one night in C2 (7200m) before returning to ABC for a 2-4 day rest before our first summit bids. With luck we'll be on top around the 30th Sept.
Rob and Ryan are on a similar shedule for tye moment and will be spending 21st-23rd in C1 and C2 getting ready for their push on the south face.
Our ABC camp, which sits high above an enormous bleached white glacier and faces opposite the sweeping and storied Nangpa-la, gives us a perfect view of the entire mass of Cho Oyu to our left - and an all to clear view of the entire route wewill need to follow! Our physical plant consists of 16 yellow VE 25s sleeping tents, two giant bright-blue house-shaped tarp tents (one for our chef Ratna and his staff Siddhi and Sonam and the second for our team to eat and gather in), a well used red outhouse tent and a highly prized burgundy shower tent.
I take the time to mention these colors as they are the only breaks for the pallette of the upward-looking eye save the startling blue sky rejgning over the black, white and grey of the rock, ice, snow, scree, morraines and glaciers which make up our world here at 5700m. At our feet we are treated to an entirely varied world as the geologic story unfolds with every step in a language marvelling but escaping most of us. Metamorphic, igneous, sedimentary rocks abound with fossil, crystals, semiprecious stones everywhere tempting one to collect unreasonable amounts of souvenirs to bring home! Nearly everyone of us wishes we had taken geology classes to open up the stories locked up before us.
Our journey to this time has been quite remarkable and when we return to Kathmandu we hope to be able to enliven our notes with a long report and loads of images.
We spend much of our time talking about home and we send our love to family and friends. We miss you all very much!
Signing off for a few days and look to report in again on 24th or 25th.
Cheers from the sunny beaches of thailand...er um, that is from the remote and austere himalaya!
stu
Wednesday, September 17, 2008
Cho Oyu base camp reached!!!
Stu just sent this message to the US office.
All members and staff safely reached base camp on the 15th. Carries to camp 1 are underway. Camp 1 has been established (3 tents up there now) and they expect members to spend the night there on the 19th. The weather is cooperative with a mix of snow and sun. The rest days are spent admiring the extraordinary views and playing card games! More news in the days to come.
Nicole
_________________________________________________________________
Thursday, September 11, 2008
Cho oyu choco pie team expedition report from tingri
Hi all, kit here in tingri.
We arrived here yesterday after a long drive through the tibetan plateau from nylam.
We had our first sight of cho oyu on the way in so have seen our challenge for the first time. the snow capped mountains and dry tibetan plateau make for spectacular scenery , everyone is pleased that our goal is in sight.
The team is well though a couple of cases of gi and cold symptoms mean we will have an extra day here for recuperation and extra acclimatization.
We had a couple of walks in nylam up to 4500m and will do the same today, possibly up to 4900m hopefully getting some good views of cho oyu on the way, though may be too cloudy for that.
On a side note I am currently sat at 4600m overlooking the plains, which are vast and pretty awe inspiring, chatting with stu, ben, guy and antonin. Sun is breaking through and its nice and warm, nearly sunbathing weather. We are watching the rest of the group race up the slope ahead trying to be the first to the top...... I know where I'd rather be....I may just have a nap and wait for them to descend.
We'll be moving on to chinese basecamp tomorrow so this afternoon is a final chance for a warm shower, for a while at least anyway!
From the field touring cho oyu choco pie crew in tingri
This email has been sent from KPMG LLP, a UK limited liability partnership (which is a subsidiary of KPMG Europe LLP), from KPMG Europe LLP or from one of the companies within KPMG LLP's control (which include KPMG Audit Plc, KPMG United Kingdom Plc and KPMG UK Limited), together "KPMG". KPMG Europe LLP does not provide services to clients. None of KPMG Europe LLP's subsidiaries have any authority to obligate or bind KPMG Europe LLP. This email is confidential and may be legally privileged. It is intended solely for the addressee. Access to this email by anyone else is unauthorised. If you are not the addressee or an intended recipient or have not agreed with us the terms on which you are receiving this email any disclosure, copying, distribution or any action taken or omitted to be taken in reliance on the contents of this email or its attachments, is at your own risk, prohibited and may be unlawful, and to the fullest extent permitted by law KPMG accepts no responsibility or liability to you. When addressed to our clients any opinions or advice contained in this email or its attachments are subject to the terms and conditions expressed in the governing KPMG client engagement letter. Anything in this email or its attachments which does not relate to KPMG's official business is neither given nor endorsed by KPMG.
We arrived here yesterday after a long drive through the tibetan plateau from nylam.
We had our first sight of cho oyu on the way in so have seen our challenge for the first time. the snow capped mountains and dry tibetan plateau make for spectacular scenery , everyone is pleased that our goal is in sight.
The team is well though a couple of cases of gi and cold symptoms mean we will have an extra day here for recuperation and extra acclimatization.
We had a couple of walks in nylam up to 4500m and will do the same today, possibly up to 4900m hopefully getting some good views of cho oyu on the way, though may be too cloudy for that.
On a side note I am currently sat at 4600m overlooking the plains, which are vast and pretty awe inspiring, chatting with stu, ben, guy and antonin. Sun is breaking through and its nice and warm, nearly sunbathing weather. We are watching the rest of the group race up the slope ahead trying to be the first to the top...... I know where I'd rather be....I may just have a nap and wait for them to descend.
We'll be moving on to chinese basecamp tomorrow so this afternoon is a final chance for a warm shower, for a while at least anyway!
From the field touring cho oyu choco pie crew in tingri
This email has been sent from KPMG LLP, a UK limited liability partnership (which is a subsidiary of KPMG Europe LLP), from KPMG Europe LLP or from one of the companies within KPMG LLP's control (which include KPMG Audit Plc, KPMG United Kingdom Plc and KPMG UK Limited), together "KPMG". KPMG Europe LLP does not provide services to clients. None of KPMG Europe LLP's subsidiaries have any authority to obligate or bind KPMG Europe LLP. This email is confidential and may be legally privileged. It is intended solely for the addressee. Access to this email by anyone else is unauthorised. If you are not the addressee or an intended recipient or have not agreed with us the terms on which you are receiving this email any disclosure, copying, distribution or any action taken or omitted to be taken in reliance on the contents of this email or its attachments, is at your own risk, prohibited and may be unlawful, and to the fullest extent permitted by law KPMG accepts no responsibility or liability to you. When addressed to our clients any opinions or advice contained in this email or its attachments are subject to the terms and conditions expressed in the governing KPMG client engagement letter. Anything in this email or its attachments which does not relate to KPMG's official business is neither given nor endorsed by KPMG.
KPMG Europe LLP, registered in England No 0C324045
Registered office: 8 Salisbury Square, London EC4Y 8BB
KPMG United Kingdom PLC, registered in England No 03513178
Registered office: 8 Salisbury Square, London EC4Y 8BB
KPMG UK Limited, registered in England No 3580549
Registered office: Aquis Court, 31 Fishpool Street, St Albans AL3 4RF
KPMG LLP, registered in England No 0C301540
Registered office: 8 Salisbury Square, London, EC4Y 8BB
KPMG Audit Plc, registered in England No 3110745
Registered office: 8 Salisbury Square, London EC4Y 8BB
Monday, September 8, 2008
Update
Kit here in nylam.
All members now assembled here with antonin arriving late last night.
We have one more day here with everyone expecting a good acclimatisation hike today and great views of shishapangma.
Stu will give a bigger update later today once we can get in the internet cafe which seems to be full from dawn to dusk.
This email has been sent from KPMG LLP, a UK limited liability partnership (which is a subsidiary of KPMG Europe LLP), from KPMG Europe LLP or from one of the companies within KPMG LLP's control (which include KPMG Audit Plc, KPMG United Kingdom Plc and KPMG UK Limited), together "KPMG". KPMG Europe LLP does not provide services to clients. None of KPMG Europe LLP's subsidiaries have any authority to obligate or bind KPMG Europe LLP. This email is confidential and may be legally privileged. It is intended solely for the addressee. Access to this email by anyone else is unauthorised. If you are not the addressee or an intended recipient or have not agreed with us the terms on which you are receiving this email any disclosure, copying, distribution or any action taken or omitted to be taken in reliance on the contents of this email or its attachments, is at your own risk, prohibited and may be unlawful, and to the fullest extent permitted by law KPMG accepts no responsibility or liability to you. When addressed to our clients any opinions or advice contained in this email or its attachments are subject to the terms and conditions expressed in the governing KPMG client engagement letter. Anything in this email or its attachments which does not relate to KPMG's official business is neither given nor endorsed by KPMG.
All members now assembled here with antonin arriving late last night.
We have one more day here with everyone expecting a good acclimatisation hike today and great views of shishapangma.
Stu will give a bigger update later today once we can get in the internet cafe which seems to be full from dawn to dusk.
This email has been sent from KPMG LLP, a UK limited liability partnership (which is a subsidiary of KPMG Europe LLP), from KPMG Europe LLP or from one of the companies within KPMG LLP's control (which include KPMG Audit Plc, KPMG United Kingdom Plc and KPMG UK Limited), together "KPMG". KPMG Europe LLP does not provide services to clients. None of KPMG Europe LLP's subsidiaries have any authority to obligate or bind KPMG Europe LLP. This email is confidential and may be legally privileged. It is intended solely for the addressee. Access to this email by anyone else is unauthorised. If you are not the addressee or an intended recipient or have not agreed with us the terms on which you are receiving this email any disclosure, copying, distribution or any action taken or omitted to be taken in reliance on the contents of this email or its attachments, is at your own risk, prohibited and may be unlawful, and to the fullest extent permitted by law KPMG accepts no responsibility or liability to you. When addressed to our clients any opinions or advice contained in this email or its attachments are subject to the terms and conditions expressed in the governing KPMG client engagement letter. Anything in this email or its attachments which does not relate to KPMG's official business is neither given nor endorsed by KPMG.
KPMG Europe LLP, registered in England No 0C324045
Registered office: 8 Salisbury Square, London EC4Y 8BB
KPMG United Kingdom PLC, registered in England No 03513178
Registered office: 8 Salisbury Square, London EC4Y 8BB
KPMG UK Limited, registered in England No 3580549
Registered office: Aquis Court, 31 Fishpool Street, St Albans AL3 4RF
KPMG LLP, registered in England No 0C301540
Registered office: 8 Salisbury Square, London, EC4Y 8BB
KPMG Audit Plc, registered in England No 3110745
Registered office: 8 Salisbury Square, London EC4Y 8BB
Friday, September 5, 2008
FTA Cho Oyu 2008: Visa in hand and off for the border on the 6th!
rom stu in kathmandu
Our members have been asssembling over the last 3 days in Kathmandu this
morning the expeditions got officially under way with a nice meeting with
the legendary Miss Elizabeth Hawley who keeps records on all of the major
climbs occuring in nepal and Tibet. her willingess to share things she has
learned about the climbs and routes always adds to our knowledge and safety
on the hill and we thank her in advance for heer help! After a short welcome
meeting members scattered to allparts of thamel for final shopping before we
reconvened at the hotel to find our visas already approved by the chinese
embassy. having heard of other teams being run through hoops we we held
cautious optimism in Nima T Sherpa of Su-Swagatam Trek that his contacts
could pull off a seemingly impossible task. One again Nima demonstrated why
we call him "the man" and there in black and red ink was our golden Willie
Wonka ticket of which there seem to be very few this year.
After a meeting on nitty gritty items and schedules we talked for a time
about what had brought each of us to this mountain with this group and it
was a great chance to get to knoew each other better and set the tone for a
team experience.
Clearly we will have a different experience this year on Cho Oyu with such a
smaller number of teams and we welcome the chance to enjoy less competition
for space and yet still enjoy meeting up with otyher teams and making the
community to be on th ehill this year a cooperative and successful one.
After months of working on getting our team in the right position to have a
chance to go to Tibet and have a go at Cho Oyu our trip finally became a
reality this morning with the successful granting of visas to all members of
the trip. Our final member arrives on monday and we hope he will be whisked
off to the border after a short time in KTM and make his way to join us in
Nylam that same day. With good luck the entire team will head towards Tingri
together on the 9th and our tentative schedule will look like:
6 to kodari at the border
7 to nylam
8 acclimatizing day in Nylam
9 to Tingri
10 acclimatizing day in Tingri
11 to Chinese BC
12 Acclimatizing day in CBC
13/14 two day trek to ABC
15 rest day in ABC
16 start climbing!
We will pass on word whenever we can and look for an up date in the next ew
days from chris in Kathamndu!
cheers,
stu
Our members have been asssembling over the last 3 days in Kathmandu this
morning the expeditions got officially under way with a nice meeting with
the legendary Miss Elizabeth Hawley who keeps records on all of the major
climbs occuring in nepal and Tibet. her willingess to share things she has
learned about the climbs and routes always adds to our knowledge and safety
on the hill and we thank her in advance for heer help! After a short welcome
meeting members scattered to allparts of thamel for final shopping before we
reconvened at the hotel to find our visas already approved by the chinese
embassy. having heard of other teams being run through hoops we we held
cautious optimism in Nima T Sherpa of Su-Swagatam Trek that his contacts
could pull off a seemingly impossible task. One again Nima demonstrated why
we call him "the man" and there in black and red ink was our golden Willie
Wonka ticket of which there seem to be very few this year.
After a meeting on nitty gritty items and schedules we talked for a time
about what had brought each of us to this mountain with this group and it
was a great chance to get to knoew each other better and set the tone for a
team experience.
Clearly we will have a different experience this year on Cho Oyu with such a
smaller number of teams and we welcome the chance to enjoy less competition
for space and yet still enjoy meeting up with otyher teams and making the
community to be on th ehill this year a cooperative and successful one.
After months of working on getting our team in the right position to have a
chance to go to Tibet and have a go at Cho Oyu our trip finally became a
reality this morning with the successful granting of visas to all members of
the trip. Our final member arrives on monday and we hope he will be whisked
off to the border after a short time in KTM and make his way to join us in
Nylam that same day. With good luck the entire team will head towards Tingri
together on the 9th and our tentative schedule will look like:
6 to kodari at the border
7 to nylam
8 acclimatizing day in Nylam
9 to Tingri
10 acclimatizing day in Tingri
11 to Chinese BC
12 Acclimatizing day in CBC
13/14 two day trek to ABC
15 rest day in ABC
16 start climbing!
We will pass on word whenever we can and look for an up date in the next ew
days from chris in Kathamndu!
cheers,
stu
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)