FTA K2/Broad Peak 2011 -Second round of acclimatization ahead!

From Stu in the US office
July 29, 2011

Chris has called in with the good news that the team is ready to head up for its second round of acclimatizing and they are hoping to spend nights in C3 at approximately 7100m and then descend to BC. With nights in C3 they will be ready for a summit push the next time up so this is a critical push.

The weather has been unsettled but winds have not too bad below the summit ridge. Chris plans to call in with more info about exact member movement and we'll have that for you shortly!






A typical night at C3 the first time is not super pleasant and most people feel the altitude and the hard work to arrive. In 2003 Alex Txicon had a rough night but rallied to summit the next day!

Alex Txicon sleeping at C3 in 2003 © stu remensnyder

The climbing from C2 to C3 is quite steep and exposed at the start and requires a lot of attention and hard work with a full pack!

Climbing from C2 to C3 on Broad Peak © stu remensnyder

But the views from C3 are worth it!

FTA '03 Member Fred Muylaert enjoying a tea at C3 © stu remensnyder

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FTA Broad Peak & K2 2011 - Summit push already under way!

From Stu in the USA office
25th June, 2011

Chris has called in with the latest at BC which includes that the team already has two members, Lakpa Sherpa and Sophie Denis, with designs on a rapid summit bid ahead of the fixed lines and established camps!

They have been having great weather and everyone if feeling well (despite a few GI challenges here and there). They have been working well with two other teams on the hill, Altitude Junkies and DAV, and the sense of camaraderie is running high. They have the rope fixed already to C2 and will be pushing the route through to C3 in the days ahead.

Coming off of summits of Everest (Lakpa) and Cho Oyu and Lhotse (Sophie), the plan had been to push up as high as they could go and see how they felt. Well they are feeling great and going to make a quick bid for the top Alpine style.  The summit winds are expected to rise by the end of the day on the 26th so they hope to be up and back to high camp well ahead of the end of the day. I have climbed with Lakpa a number of times and he is one of the fastest climbers i have seen. Sophie put in some very quick times on Cho Oyu and Lhotse so they seem to make a good team!

We'll have all the news coming as they go for a very early summit on Broad Peak.