K2 2009 Expedition Leader Confirmed

We are truly very pleased to be able to confirm Fabrizio Zangrilli as the K2 2009 expedition manager. There are probably only a handful of people on the planet whom we would be comfortable in having run this trip, and Fabrizio was high on that list for us. We have been very fortunate in getting his not insignificant talents on board.

A professional full-time climber living in Boulder, Colorado, Fabrizio has been pretty much climbing non stop for 22 years. Some of the expeditions he has guided, or climbed on include:

Everest north K2 ( 3 times) including the cesen which he fixed on his own to C4.
Makalu
Cho Oyu
Shishapangma
Gasherbrum I
Gasherbrum II
Nuptse
Ama Dablam (5 times)
Pumori
Cerro Torre
Denali (5 times)
Queen Maud Land, Antarctica
Plus a hundred other 7000m or less hills...

A couple of years ago, while working on the cesen route, he went from K2 base Camp, 5000m, to camp 4, 7900m, and back to base camp in a day (36 Hours).

But he has promised to slow down for this trip..!

Pic: Fabrizio Zangrilli
(Courtesy http://fabriziozangrilliguiding.blogspot.com/)

K2 Expedition 2009 news release

FTA to head to K2 again in 2009!

Australian expedition outfitter and Karakoram specialist Field Touring Alpine will be heading back to K2 in 2009 with a 15 person attempt on the SSE spur, or Cesen route.

This will be the third serious commercial attempt on the hill after FTA's previous effort in 2006, and Amical Alpin's successful ascent of the mountain via the Abruzzi Ridge in 2004, a year that saw exceptional snow conditions and sunny skies that permitted over 40 summits for the season, a record for the Karakoram giant.

FTA's Pakistan manager Dave Hancock said he has chosen the 'Cesen' Line over the Abruzzi after hearing the account of it from best friend Mark Sheen, who climbed up the spur and then descended via the Abruzzi last year with the Norit team. "It seems to me the route presents much better than the Abruzzi if conditions underfoot are good, that's not to say its necessarily any easier, but we are of the opinion that is is significantly objectively safer"

The 4000m long Cesen route, also dubbed the 'Basque Route', follows a spur just on the right side of the south face, which joins up to the Abruzzi at 7800m at the shoulder on K2. It was the way up for the Dutch based Norit team on last years ill-fated expedition. FTA have a double permit that includes Broad Peak, where several of the K2 climbers will go first to aid acclimatisation.

"We have teams on G2, Broad and on K2 this season, so interested climbers can mix and match if they want, we've even got one climber doing the Gasherbrum double, and then he plans to head over to K2, we cant say his name but with his resume it wouldn't surprise us if he pulls it off if he can get a couple of good windows. We will have a lot of resources in the Concordia area this season and are hoping for some good weather and successful outcomes"

Hancock noted that the expedition on K2 isnt fully guided "We have professional leaders running the K2 trip, but its not a situation where the
guide will lead anybody to the summit. K2 just isnt the kind of hill that you can apply Everest style techniques to - what we have is a group of like-minded climbers pooling their efforts to surmount a significant himalayan objective, the entire team will be working to get the strongest members to the top. The CV's of the ten or so on the current team list are quite impressive, some guys have done 4 or more 8000ers, while a few crew will come over from Broad Peak to help out on the lower slopes in the build-up and don't have any expectations about getting much higher. These guys just want to be a part of the fun and if they can help get someone else up to the top, then that's an added bonus. We are kind of harking back to
the grand old days of traditional expeditions with this climb"

FTA have another big season ahead of them in 2009, with all the main Karakoram 8000ers on their to do list, as well as expeditions to Spantik and Trango, and treks accompanying the K2, Broad Peak, and G2 climbers. Dave says there are still opportunities to get on board "We have a few spots left on some of the trips for anybody interested in climbing in the Karakoram this year, we've also got a vacancy for an assistant team manager on one of the 8000m trips if any of your readers have the requisite experience".

More info at www.fieldtouring.com

IMAGES: CESEN ROUTE BY MARK SHEEN/FTA

Floods put and end to Desert ride

Despite our best efforts mother nature proved too challenging this time and
with forced track closures and the risk of a hefty fine should we breach the
road blocks, the bikes didn't even get to see the red and very wet sands of
our outback!

The floods should subside in a week or two and we may try
again, but it's a long way to go (we just did 2400kms in 50 hrs!) and time
is never on our side with some big expeditions looming. We did manage to
get a beautiful night under the stars with a big bonfire, reward enough for
the gruelling road trip with bikes on the trailer.
Images: dave hancock/fta

Australian Adventure Bike ride!

FTA principal Dave Hancock is off on a one a decade trip to the flooded Australian deserts. Seems a massive hurricane has come through and Dave will be back in a week with more images.

Dave writes:
"The bikes are Kawasaki KLR 650's - great long distance on/off road tourers,and the bike of choice for a lot of people doing intercontinental runs!

We'll do a 700km round trip on dirt to get to Mt Augustus - the whole area is flooded to varying degrees, but we think there is a way thru along some high ground. One major river course, that has been dry for 6 years, is now a staggering 9 metres (20+ft) deep."

Its not just mountaineering at Field Touring but adventure of every kind! If you are interested in joining adventure rides let Dave know at
dave@fieldtouring.com.

Cheers,

Stu in the US office

Aconcagua January 2009 Expeditions Under Way!

Our January 10 to 31, 2009 Aconcagua expeditions are under way
and you can follow all the news at
http://www.fieldtouring.com/dispatches/aconcagua_2009.php

We have a 4 member team led by Sean James heading up the Polish
Glacier and 12 member team led by Ben Kane and Chris Szymiec on
the False Polish climb. With a brand new BC set up and brand new
Eureka! tents we are set for a great trip and look forward to a
great trip!

We have some spots open still for our Feb 5 - 26 departures so
let us know! If you are interested email to stu@fieldtouring.com

Enjoy!

Stu, Dave and the gang at FTA

New route on Ama?

Some have been calling it a new route. Some more accurately a variation to the standard SW ridge on Ama Dablam. Personally, after only being up there three years in a row and far from an expert, I believe the route below the Dablam is just inching it's way to the right every year.

The Dablam is no doubt getting smaller and with that, the face below it is becoming more scoured. Far more rock and hard ice are now exposed but the line is essentially the same. I've never seen such a mess of old, older and ancient lines before. The photo hardly does it justice.

In the future I foresee more of the same. It will take a strong collaboration between teams to push a line around the Dablam. Hats off to to boys who did it this year. Very strong climbing indeed.

With all that said. The SW ridge on Ama Dablam is about as classic as a route can be. The variation of climbing. Rock, ice, snow and mixed; combined with the mental exposure on one of the worlds most beautiful peaks makes Ama Dablam a must climb. All of the worlds peaks are are slowly falling apart, that's why they are so beautiful. The question is: How do we get up to their top's and back down safely? Care, teamwork, skill and most of all, a small ego. Maybe walking before one runs?

Chris

November team back at base camp...

...and we summited!

(photo: James Bingham rounding the dablam in blistering winds)

Zangbu Sherpa, Damian, Neal, James, Chris & Lahkpa Sherpa summited 6856m Ama Dablam at apx 12 noon on November 23.

Everyone is now back at base camp feeling exhausted but elated at the success of our big climb. The route was tough this year. High winds, bullet proof ice and cold temps made for an exciting push from the new camp 3. (see 'New route on Ama?' post)

After acclimatizing on Island Peak, we rested for a day in BC. We then moved to c1 and slept. Next we carried some gear to c2 and descended back to c2 Then up to c3 and to the summit the next day and back to c3. Yesterday we descended to base and here we are.

I have to mention once again how important and necessary the help of our local Sherpa staff was. Tsering, Pasang, Zangbu & Lahkpa worked so hard and without them, the climb would have been a totally different story. I'd love to hear more praise for these guys and girls. These unsung heroes always seem to get the generic "...and Sherpa" mention. Also, Nima Sherpa, from Su Swagatam trek, our local operator who runs our local logistics and so so much more. Hats off to anyone who climbs without Sherpa support on these big hills. Very proud indeed.

Anyway, Neal, Dale, Damian, Noel & James are headed over to climb Lobuche in a couple of days with Lahkpa & Zangbu in the lead. My seemingly endless drive seems to have ended. And, along with a few frozen digits, I am in desperate need of some rest below 4000m. Nothing serious, just a sign that after 6 months on expedition, it's time for some, pardon the pun, down time.

Chris from Ama Dablam base camp.