FTA Ama Dablam 2011 - Island Peak Summits!

from stu in the USA office
17th Nov, 2011

Ben just called in from Dingboche with the great news that all 6 members of the team summited Island Peak today and are all safely back down!

 Island Peak Summits

They left Island Peak BC on a crisp and clear morning at 2am and topped out at 9:30am with perfect views of Lhotse, Nuptse, Ama Dablam, Baruntse, Makalu and more. After many days with clouds and snow they were treated to a great day for a summit push. Ben said they climbed well as a team and were all really happy to make the first of hopefully two summits!

Island Peak summiteers are:
Benjamin Kane
Siddhi Bahadur Tamang
Brad Jackson
Meeagan McGrath
Bryson McLellan
Colin Carnahan

After enjoying a celebratory rest on the top they made their way back to base camp by noon and decided to make a good push towards Ama Dablam BC. The happy team had a well-earned lunch, packed up and tromped for another 5 hours and arrived at Dingboche at 7pm by headtorch! They all really wanted to get back down lower for a good sleep and to make the trek back into Ama Dablam BC tomorrow an easy one.

Looking back to Island Peak from near Dingboche. Everest is lurking somewhere behind the massive Lhotse wall on the left!

Ama Dablam Next Up

FTA Khumbu Peaks and Passes - Island Peak Summits!

from Stu in the USA office
Oct 15, 2011

Ben just called in with the update on the sussmit push with the good news that Veronika and Tsering topped out this morning and that they are already back in Chukung! They left the high camp at 3 am and topped out at 7:45am so were moving very quickly. Congrats to them both!



Mattias and Richard were feeling the effects of altitude and decided wisely to hold off on a summit bid and keep on a good track for Pokalde, Lobuche, Gokyo and the trip ahead. Mattias did take a good walk up towards the high camp and both he and Richard are ready to go for Pokalde high camp and the Kongma la tomorrow.

Seng has had the hardest time with the altitude and came back down to Dingboche from the Island Peak BC and Ben has been keeping a watchful eye on him. Today Ben and Seng decided it would be best for him to descend back to Deboche which is the last place he felt great and give him a few days of rest and acclimatization there. While the main group goes over the Kongma La, Seng will take it easy there along with our asst chef Geylu. If Seng is feeling well after a few nights there they will come back up to Pheriche and then on to Lobuche and meet up with the main team for the corssing of the Cho La. One of the good things about Deboche and the Rivendale Lodge is that Seng will have access to email so we'll hope for a nice note from him shortly.

As I mentioned in my last dispatch acclimatization is an individual matter and each member needs to listen to their body and move wisely. Sometimes it is simply a matter of slowing down during a day and breathing more, other times it means extra nights and ever now and then it even means descending. It is easy to forget as one treks by villages with children laughing and playing that these are still very high altitudes and need to be respected.

Ben and the main group will travel light with a few porters over the Kongma La and the cook staff and porters will meet them on the other side to join up for Lobuche BC.With good luck the entire team will head over the Cho La into the Gokyo valley in less than a weeks time carrying summits of Island Peak, Pokalde and Lobuche with them!

We'll have more news in the days ahead!

FTA Khumbu Peaks and Passes - Island Peak summit bid ahead!

from stu in the USA office
October 13, 2011

Ben called in today with great news from the Khumbu - our team is all ensconced in a moonlit base camp and planning on a summit on the 15th of October!

They had just finished a fine pizza supper and were headed to get some sleep after a full day at the base camp. Ben said that our cook Pemba has been knocking out one great meal after another and they are looking forward to the weight loss plan of the high altitude climbs! During the hikes and meals they have had a good time getting to know each other and have been enjoying each others company very much.

FTA guide Brad Boehringer chowing down a big meal en route to Ama Dablam in 2005

Much of their day today was spent on a full skills review of fixed line movement, crampon and ice axe use and more. Some of our members have extensive experience including attempts on 8000m peaks and were able to enjoy the review and share their experience. Others have limited exposure to technical climbing and the day presented a wonderful opportunity to get ready for the climb ahead on their first 6000m peak. As everyone had been away form the mountains for some time they all benefited from the practice and review and everyone is feeling good about the climbs ahead.

The climbing will be coordinated by our lead guide Ben and lead sherpa Tsering along with a sherpa-in-training Pemba. We hope that all 4 members will feel strong enough to make a summit push but the morning will be important for an assessment of acclimatization for everyone. As they have a full trip ahead with 3 more climbs there is now need to push and anyone feeling any altitude effects tomorrow will likely take an extra rest day at BC and make a walk up to the high camp while the main team goes for the summit. After this attempt on Island Peak they will move on to Pokalde which will give everyone another peak to acclimatize on before the climb on Lobuche.

Learning the basics of roped climbing with ice axe and crampons is fun and rewarding!

As is always the case people have acclimatized at different rates with some members feeling the altitude earlier in the trip and others more recently. Acclimatization is an "experiment of one" and each person must find their own schedule over time. For members who have extensive high altitude backgrounds the program can be looked at ahead of time and know it will be fine. For others making their first foray into high altitude it is in many respects a big unkown and they are being asked to follow an accepted schedule that may in fact not work for them. We are always mindful that we may need to adjust the program for individuals who don't conform to the traditional altitude jumps. As such Ben has been checking in regularly with the members, taking pulse oxymeter readings and keeping a watchful eye on everyone. So far everyone has been going well despite the occasional mild headache and Ben is hopeful they will all be ready to go tomorrow to high camp.

Ben will call with more news in the days ahead so stay tuned!

FTA Khumbu Peaks and Passes - In Tenboche

Ben sent in a couple of updates over the weekend and here they are for you to enjoy! They have already arrived in Tenboche and we'll have more news shortly!

FTA camp site in the heart of Namche © Ben Kane

Oct 8, 2011
From Ben in Namche

Greetings from Namche Bazaar!

After waking up at 4:30am and a few expected delays in the airport, we finally took off for Lukla airstrip. This truly is one of the most amazing plane flights in the world and for some the highlight of the trip into the Solo Khumbu valley.

We had a quick repack of gear in Lukla and then it was straight onto the trail, stopping for a lazy lunch and getting into Phakding mid-afternoon, arriving to our tents already set up and more hot drinks awaiting us. Everyone had a lovely nights sleep with the sound of the river cascading close by, and up bright and early with 'bed-tea' (chai served to us in our sleeping bags!), a hearty breakfast and off on the trail early. It's great to get going early as it is cool and the air is crisp and clear.

We finally made it into Namche early afternoon, which involves a steep hill climb, but the views from the top are worth it! Unfortunately we couldn't see Everest due to some clouds but many of the awesome peaks surrounding Namche were peering out through the cloud.

Tomorrow we plan a hike up to Khunde Ri, and a circuit over to Khumjung (a visit to the bakery) and some sightseeing around town.

All the best and more to come!
Ben

Trekking above Namche © Ben Kane

Oct 9, 20011
From Ben in Namche

Today we went for a hike up to Khumjung by way of Syangboche (and the amazing high altitude airstrip) and had a very quick view of Everest, Lhotse and Ama Dablam before the clouds set in. We made it back down to Namche for lunch and hot drinks. We all did some laundry and lazed about in
the warm afternoon sun after our big day out.

Tomorrow we are up early for our hike up to Tengboche, and hopefully we'll get a peek inside the famous monastery. Everyone is feeling really good and acclimatising well which bodes well for the coming days of ascent.

Stay tuned, more from the trail,
Ben

FTA Khumbu Peaks & Passes 2011 team in Kathmandu.
From L to R :Seng, Matttias, Veronika, Richard and Ben

[Below are some additional pics from our files to help you enjoy the scenery!]

Namche Airstrip © Stu Remensnyder

Model Trekker sign at the Sagarmartha Park entrance © stu remensnyder

Waking up to a hot tea on the trail! © stu remensnyder

Crossing a bridge below Namche © stu remensnyder

Porter loads taking a break on the trail :-)  © stu remensnyder

FTA Ama Dablam 2010 Autumn - Island Peak Summits!

from stu in the usa office

17th Nov, 2010

Our team has already topped out on Island Peak and is back safely at Ama Dablam BC! We are waiting on all the details and hope to have them shortly!

Our group arrived back in Ama Dablam BC yesterday and tomorrow plan to head up to C1. After a night in C1 they will either return to rest in BC a few days or make a move to C2 if everyone is feeling well.

More news soon!

Audio Dispatches #1 from high camp before the summit

Fabrizio calls in from high camp at 2:15am to let us know the team is about to set off for the summit! He reports that the weather is perfect - pretty warm and clear skies above. Fabrizio adds that this is what he loves about night climbing...to see "headlamps dotted along the slope and lots of stars dance"!

Audio Dispatches #2 from BC after the summit!

Fabrizio checks back in from BC at 12:30pm on 14th to let us know the entire team had a successful summit day on Island Peak! The team arrived at the top around 8am in peefect conditions and enjoyed views of the north face of Ama Dablam and the south face of Lhotse! They will head back to Ama Dablam tomorrow for a few well deserved rest days!

Field Touring Alpine Audio Dispatches

FTA Ama Dabalam Update - En route to Island Peak!

from Fabrizio in Pangboche
Nov 11, 2010

Hello from Ama Dablam! Well actually Pangboche - I ran down to town as there is fast internet in a lodge there.
We made it to base camp in great condition, everyone is feeling fit in the group. Today was a much deserved rest day, and a bit of packing, as tomorrow we head off to Island peak for a few days to acclimatize before climbing Ama Dablam.
Many teams have been topping out the past few days and base camp is clearing out nicely, when we return from Island Peak there should only be a couple of teams remaining. There is talk of a bit of bad weather coming in but it should not derail any of our plans.

update 12 Nov from stu in the usa office
Team is now in Dinboche and everyone feeling great. They have had great views of Ama Dablam and are excited about heading to Island Peak!

FTA Ama Dablam 2010 Under Way

from stu in the usa office
Nov 7, 2010

FTA Ama Dablam 2010 Update

Our expedition to Ama Dablam under the leadership of Fabrizio Zangrilli is under way and the team is now in Namche enjoying a good time acclimatizing.

We'll begin to have updates every 3-4 days over the course of the expedition here at our blogspot and also will update on twitter at www.twitter.com/fieldtouring.

Our FTA Nov 4, 2010 Ama Dablam climbing team is the following:

Fabrizio Zangrilli (FTA Guide)
Siddhi Tamang (Sherpa Guide)
Erika Gustavsson
Roger Hedlund
Jack Gerstein
Michael Brandt
Ruud van Gassel

Fabrizio posted the following over the last two days:

"Hello from Namche Bazaar. All of the group are doing great, in fact they are some of the fastest members I have ever had. We have been sitting around at the bakery eating yummy baked delights when we hear that a helicopter crashed at Ama Dablam. I know no details at this point, but we are all fine. I know many people who are at base camp right now, I hope that they are all ok.

The latest news is the helicopter crashed on the north side of the mountain on the 6th while attempting to rescue climbers on that side of the mountain. News is still sketchy, and very much third hand, but wanted to put people at ease who new people on the Normal (SW Ridge) route."

Ama Dablam Helicopter Crash

Updates are now on the web and it looks as though the pilot who was flying the rescue was the pilot responsible for the highest rescue ever performed and he was on an attempted rescue on the north side of Ama Dablam.

http://news.smh.com.au/breaking-news-world/rescue-helicopter-crashes-near-everest-20101107-17j5a.html

Sabin Basnyat and an engineer were attempting to rescue two climbers from Mount Amadablam, a 6812-metre peak near Everest, when their helicopter crashed.

Witnesses reported seeing it burst into flames before smashing into the mountainside.

"We can confirm that one of our rescue helicopters has crashed in the Everest region. We have sent a helicopter to the scene," Fishtail Air executive Manoj Gurung said.

Earlier this year, Basnyat made history when he piloted the world's highest ever rescue mission, airlifting three sick Spanish climbers from Mount Annapurna.

Our thoughts are with the families of Captain Sabin Basnet and Engineer Purna Awale who lost their lives in the crash.


Upcoming trip notes

We have upcoming expeditions to Aconcagua and Ecuador during December, January and February and are already booking trips for Broad Peak, K2 and Nanga Parbat for summer 2011 as well as for Spantik, Satopanth and Ama Dablam for next autumn. We have loads of trips for every level climber and trekker and hope you'll join us for a trip in 2011!

Check out our full line-up at the main site "www.fieldtouring.com"

Island Peak Summits!

Sean,Tsering, Mama, Wei, Antonin, Paul & Chris summited Island Peak this morning in perfect weather.

After an evening at 5650m high camp Josh became ill and decided to stay back (he is much better now). The rest of the team left at 3am and were on top between 6am and 8am. Everyone is back at base camp feeling fine and ready to move to Ama Dablam base camp on the 29th.