tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9960448141070063372024-03-12T21:43:16.940-04:00Field Touring Alpine BlogExpedition Dispatches and the Latest News!Field Touring Alpinehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06854859430334159650noreply@blogger.comBlogger306125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-996044814107006337.post-89711714115821900692013-07-14T14:52:00.001-04:002013-07-15T14:15:53.767-04:00FTA Broad Peak 2013 update - Summit Attempt update<b>Summit and descending!</b><br />
Ron and Scott made a summit bid today leaving from camp three at about 7100m. Ron managed to top out along with three high altitude porters while Scott turned about shortly before the top. They are on descent and we look forward to hearing the details when they get back down!<br />
[note: we have now heard that our BC staff may have been a bit excited and Ron only reached the false summit- we are awaiting his return to base camp and will update ASAP!]<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQZ4fQmymxIXZBtEt02L1o3_gMB0CQKJdtf1aDP29JyXl50MoN0GZvJpVD9DNx2IYzESK5UNteeER-dM5MSBZ_2DrlV4RXC8LWMXSB89d-gty7n8x4VrjIyG6CyQfbyMw8b0X7SG5NmCo/s1600/DSCN1432.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQZ4fQmymxIXZBtEt02L1o3_gMB0CQKJdtf1aDP29JyXl50MoN0GZvJpVD9DNx2IYzESK5UNteeER-dM5MSBZ_2DrlV4RXC8LWMXSB89d-gty7n8x4VrjIyG6CyQfbyMw8b0X7SG5NmCo/s400/DSCN1432.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">ridge above the col on Broad Peak © stu remensnyder</td></tr>
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<b>Successful Evacuation</b><br />
Brian has already made his way out from base camp on a helicopter flight yesterday and is now on his way back home. John was able to accompany him out as well and give hims support at every turn. Our ground staff did a great job hustling them through the process of evaluation and them down to Islamabad. Brian is sporting a nice caste from the Pakistani Military hospital and we thank them for all of their help as well.<br />
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more news shortly!Field Touring Alpinehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06854859430334159650noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-996044814107006337.post-3900654077523307372013-07-11T11:43:00.002-04:002013-07-11T11:46:45.840-04:00FTA Broad Peak 2013 - Summit bid getting under way<b>Summit Bid Ahead</b><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisYEeLAjol4wGnAmDHwXGNWmIrxD8o000f95jJpf5DRpEnok4NmqtE2IxC0wWYnttNBGKUWtfBnST2bMqXsRhJTBYlJhSZ7Hs52AJojwfak5bxktKUvnNQGtieP-sxfGl5ehHm83dt_C8/s1600/bp03C3.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" width="95%" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisYEeLAjol4wGnAmDHwXGNWmIrxD8o000f95jJpf5DRpEnok4NmqtE2IxC0wWYnttNBGKUWtfBnST2bMqXsRhJTBYlJhSZ7Hs52AJojwfak5bxktKUvnNQGtieP-sxfGl5ehHm83dt_C8/s1600/bp03C3.png" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">K2 from C3 on Broad Peak © stu remensnyder</td></tr>
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With a 2-3 day weather window over the weekend looking quite good, Ron and Scott will be heading up to Camp 2 (6200m/20,400ft) tomorrow and hoping for a summit bid on the 14th if all goes well. The weather looks to be holding into the 15th so they may have a spare day to work with. They will be on the hill for a few days so we may not hear directly from them til monday or tuesday but will be able to follow along from our bc staff.<br />
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They are well acclimatized from sleeping at Camp 2 and both had been to over 7000m/23,100ft on the last round up. Camp 3 is typically located above 7100m leaving about 900m vertical on the summit day. In some years we push the camp up rather than summit directly from Camp 3 as this can shorten the summit day. They will have to see how they are going when they arrive and will either head straight for the top the next day or push camp up and try for the top the following morning. Factors that will plan into the decision include snow conditions, route fixing concerns and other climbers on the hill to join forces with to push the route through.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_FEh4BN5aYwepkcMSsrl4Pxcsc8GqnP7CgxX2Z6z0iJboS8tOXth6PEsJKXgCjr97prC4LsPopqGwK5sU5YlR53nMXZ8z2nwkZFwVyCOL1OY-FPtISnE4RsIpWc7Tm6LJ7GULd1ULrzE/s1600/BP03sumridgejumarcr.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_FEh4BN5aYwepkcMSsrl4Pxcsc8GqnP7CgxX2Z6z0iJboS8tOXth6PEsJKXgCjr97prC4LsPopqGwK5sU5YlR53nMXZ8z2nwkZFwVyCOL1OY-FPtISnE4RsIpWc7Tm6LJ7GULd1ULrzE/s640/BP03sumridgejumarcr.jpg" width="425" /></a></div>
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On summit day they will work from camp on moderate terrain to the base of the col where it steepens up considerably for about 50-100 meters and can often be as much as 50-60° of snow, ice or rock. One they have gained the col at 7850m they have to negotiate an exposed and sinuous ascending ridge with short rocky and snow/ice steps to reach the fore summit at about 8030m. This is often as far as climbers get as the next 16 vertical meters is nearly 900m away and one must be feeling strong as the trip over and back can still be a few more hours of the hardest work one has ever done. On ascent the right side of the ridge looks steeply all the way back down the base camp in Pakistan while the left side drops nearly vertically many thousands of feet down in to China.<br />
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We will have word on their progress and post it here!<br />
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<b>Ecav Update</b><br />
The last 4 days have seen a lot of mediocre weather in base camp or in Skardu (or both) and Brian is still waiting along with John for the arrival of the helicopter. He is resting well, watching reruns of movies on an iPad and looking forward to a soft bed in the next few days. Today the weather was better in Skardu and base camp but still poor in-between. We hope tomorrow will bring the clear weather needed for a safe flight out.<br />
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The image below is from 2003 and shows the kind of terrain for the landing and why it is important that they have excellent visibility and proper winds for landing in the thin air at 4800m/15,800ft.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGEb6-SOXgisd4VyXZdLs6jymcoo2V5Yx6iOJpbWp0qbYQHAGuODdCQONZvVsAPw17rzOfCg79J1LPiqHHzREdyZf5T3lFBkHMWRwg_fiWAHKZk1RDq9unxOZNQPXg6Dg_8WuWXra3ZNg/s1600/DSCN1411heli.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGEb6-SOXgisd4VyXZdLs6jymcoo2V5Yx6iOJpbWp0qbYQHAGuODdCQONZvVsAPw17rzOfCg79J1LPiqHHzREdyZf5T3lFBkHMWRwg_fiWAHKZk1RDq9unxOZNQPXg6Dg_8WuWXra3ZNg/s640/DSCN1411heli.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Helicopter evac near Broad Peak BC © stu remensnyder</td></tr>
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<br />Field Touring Alpinehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06854859430334159650noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-996044814107006337.post-31898635981867899302013-07-07T10:41:00.002-04:002013-07-07T10:41:34.144-04:00FTA Broad Peak 2013 update - Team in BC after C2 rotation<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEid8zGiWdhg-Ys2AfLNRjTscHN5HlDmbhsJqYKU5AhDzOL32rvMjNVudqfvHJUbiMlgz89u4c90ysNEuo5T2OXy-gf2fERDTQgg3BOYrrPsMktEIBSKX_AgkXJ-nMWJ8GncyerQ17bvDaA/s1600/climbingToC2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="256" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEid8zGiWdhg-Ys2AfLNRjTscHN5HlDmbhsJqYKU5AhDzOL32rvMjNVudqfvHJUbiMlgz89u4c90ysNEuo5T2OXy-gf2fERDTQgg3BOYrrPsMktEIBSKX_AgkXJ-nMWJ8GncyerQ17bvDaA/s400/climbingToC2.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Climbing towards C1 on Broad Peak © Brad Jackson</td></tr>
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Over the last 3-4 days our team spent nights at C1 and C2 and even tagged C3 before descending to base camp for a rest period. They enjoyed great views of K2 and life high on the steep mountain during this time and are quite well acclimatized to 6200m or better now.<br />
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Unfortunately, on the descent below C1, Brian sustained a lowed leg injury and had to be assisted to return to base camp. A few climbers from other teams, local HAPs and a rescue group from Concordia all assisted and we thank them all for their great help. His injury is serious enough that he will need to have a flight out but he is uninjured aside from his leg injury. When he is back in Skardu we will be able to assess the full extent of the injury and sort out his best course for treatment and return home.<br />
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We have arranged for a helicopter flight out and are awaiting good weather for the next chance for them to fly him out. At this time the whole team is safely resting at base camp under the cover of clouds and hoping for clearer skies tomorrow.<br />
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After a few days at base camp the remaining members will look to make a final cycle to spend a night at C3 before looking for a summit bid. Having already had nights at C2 though it is possible for the team to make a bid on the next round up and the long term forecast looks like a low wind period perhaps around the 17th of july.<br />
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We will have more updates on Brian's evacuation and the climbing plan in the next 24-48 hours and post it then.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkWlDa-oVJVBJuhk0kBX59U4RA_jZ-31skijE40O5dE_0rcT1GjJb7fxyCllgfdLOXHJcHMTeg13NiOWIpHeiGeB2yE_KuCWTqcNcEZM0RVARK0DPY6fzBH43H8HZdx_ijfa7m4hJF_os/s1600/c2toc3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkWlDa-oVJVBJuhk0kBX59U4RA_jZ-31skijE40O5dE_0rcT1GjJb7fxyCllgfdLOXHJcHMTeg13NiOWIpHeiGeB2yE_KuCWTqcNcEZM0RVARK0DPY6fzBH43H8HZdx_ijfa7m4hJF_os/s640/c2toc3.jpg" width="425" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Climbing from C2 to C3 on Broad Peak © stu remensnyder</td></tr>
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<br />Field Touring Alpinehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06854859430334159650noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-996044814107006337.post-83728873322992305132013-07-03T05:00:00.001-04:002013-07-06T10:30:01.100-04:00Broad Peak 2013 update - C1 rotation done, C2 next up!Our team calls in from BC to let us know they will be on the hill for the next few days working their way up to C2 and then back down again. They may be out of touch for a few days and back in touch on the 7th or 8th when back in base camp.<br />
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<i style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 20px;">Mobile Device users:</i><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 20px;"> </span><br />
<i style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 20px;">Please note ipadio is flash-based so you may not be able to hear them here on your mobile devices like iPhones and iPads. We are looking for a fix and hope to have one shortly!</i><br />
<i style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 20px;"><br /></i><i style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 20px;"> In the mean time you can hear them on your mobile device by visiting our channel on the ipadio site itself:<a href="http://www.ipadio.com/channels/StuartRemensnyder" style="color: #6699cc; text-decoration: none;"> FTA Audio Dispatches on ipadio</a></i>Field Touring Alpinehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06854859430334159650noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-996044814107006337.post-48055442886407046582013-06-30T06:02:00.001-04:002013-07-06T07:33:45.603-04:00Broad Peak 2013 update - C1 nights ahead<object align="middle" classid="clsid:d27cdb6e-ae6d-11cf-96b8-444553540000" codebase="http://download.macromedia.com/pub/shockwave/cabs/flash/swflash.cab#version=8,0,0,0" height="200" id="embed-352x200" width="352"><param name="allowScriptAccess" value="always"></param>
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<i style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 20px;">Mobile Device users:</i><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 20px;"> </span><br />
<i style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 20px;">Please note ipadio is flash-based so you may not be able to hear them here on your mobile devices like iPhones and iPads. We are looking for a fix and hope to have one shortly!</i><br />
<i style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 20px;"><br /></i><i style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 20px;"> In the mean time you can hear them on your mobile device by visiting our channel on the ipadio site itself:<a href="http://www.ipadio.com/channels/StuartRemensnyder" style="color: #6699cc; text-decoration: none;"> FTA Audio Dispatches on ipadio</a></i>Field Touring Alpinehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06854859430334159650noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-996044814107006337.post-46174160772981452522013-06-28T20:12:00.001-04:002013-06-28T21:31:43.463-04:00Broad Peak 2013 update - Heading to C1!<object align="middle" classid="clsid:d27cdb6e-ae6d-11cf-96b8-444553540000" codebase="http://download.macromedia.com/pub/shockwave/cabs/flash/swflash.cab#version=8,0,0,0" height="200" id="embed-352x200" width="352"><param name="allowScriptAccess" value="always"></param>
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<i style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 20px;">Mobile Device users:</i><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 20px;"> </span><br style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 20px;" /><i style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 20px;">Please note ipadio is flash-based so you may not be able to hear them here on your mobile devices like iPhones and iPads. We are looking for a fix and hope to have one shortly!</i><br style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 20px;" /><i style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 20px;"><br /></i><i style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 20px;"> In the mean time you can hear them on your mobile device by visiting our channel on the ipadio site itself:<a href="http://www.ipadio.com/channels/StuartRemensnyder" style="color: #6699cc; text-decoration: none;"> FTA Audio Dispatches on ipadio</a></i>Field Touring Alpinehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06854859430334159650noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-996044814107006337.post-49666574785023809172013-06-27T10:37:00.002-04:002013-06-27T10:37:44.783-04:00FTA Broad Peak 2013 - Climb under way!<span class="userContent"><b>BC Reached</b><br /> <br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4L0pIG8BSxKqKPwm9pApNzPrMArbfjfm9EMgez3yxrPrwfti1b3fcoNRM5bbjrNsRgDgq9gHv-Dx3UzdMQesyDv9yxQ4IqDqG9vxkpVjubTQoZ5HlkYWg8rftoKrEOTo3GOcj9OLwh6g/s750/photo.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="228" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4L0pIG8BSxKqKPwm9pApNzPrMArbfjfm9EMgez3yxrPrwfti1b3fcoNRM5bbjrNsRgDgq9gHv-Dx3UzdMQesyDv9yxQ4IqDqG9vxkpVjubTQoZ5HlkYWg8rftoKrEOTo3GOcj9OLwh6g/s400/photo.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Broad Peak BC on a serene evening © Brad Jackson</td></tr>
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Our
team is enjoying a rest day after arriving at base camp and will begin
the climb in earnest tomorrow. They have had some rain today and are hopeful for better weather and better views shortly.The first few days will include walks to the base of the hill and load carrying to C1 at about 5800m. Everyone is well but for a few bellies still adjusting to the local flora and fauna!</span><br />
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<span class="userContent">The base camp is at approximately 4800m and is located each year in about the same place according to GPS location but is entirely different each year as the glacier moves about 2 meters per day which means that last years BC is about 700m further down towards Concordia. </span>The rocks and ice they are camped on will be out to Paiju in about 100 years by my (very) rough calculation! It also means any tripods that Vittorio Sella left behind in 1909 should be for sale in the antique markets in Askole any day now - though they may have been a bit crunched up on the way :-)<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3ouAJFh3hvPgQiqzx5V3rkWgPD0L6Ii2b2Utbn_gGibAlQmMKMKwLVJVB5KBHsPFhyzfZs3ivkb6tj0xC8sPHYOWATCPIfEnQzdGreyGpsjZRgJH3bad4a6hgkKyVWbLbp1rjC3mZ9a4/s640/k2frombp03cr.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3ouAJFh3hvPgQiqzx5V3rkWgPD0L6Ii2b2Utbn_gGibAlQmMKMKwLVJVB5KBHsPFhyzfZs3ivkb6tj0xC8sPHYOWATCPIfEnQzdGreyGpsjZRgJH3bad4a6hgkKyVWbLbp1rjC3mZ9a4/s400/k2frombp03cr.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View to K2 from near the base of the Broad Peak climb © stu remensnyder</td></tr>
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<span class="userContent"><b>C1 next up</b></span></div>
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<span class="userContent">They will be working on establishing Camp
1 at near 5800m over the next few days and will have great views of K2 from
the lower slopes of the climb as they go. C1 is perched in a small and airy spot and there are not a lot of spaces for tents so in some years we establish a lower camp at about 5300m. This lower camp is not preferred is more exposed to avalanches so must be used with caution. The views from C1 are spectacular and it is quite amazing to see how smooth the Baltoro looks from high up after having scrambled and wended one's way over and through it for many days.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7if9FwZGEqt8kJiEjUvtMt16xJ8Cn4XqK-kn6RA-7W8FTG3ny7kVCg0WWdxXzOTIWJEckNmYFdAwDxlg3qLtJ6UFXoXcupp9Ty4PZmmMc_PNZHXgDI-9aqVhz7LIMpYGCVhalsxNIZt4/s640/DSCN1336malteCI.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7if9FwZGEqt8kJiEjUvtMt16xJ8Cn4XqK-kn6RA-7W8FTG3ny7kVCg0WWdxXzOTIWJEckNmYFdAwDxlg3qLtJ6UFXoXcupp9Ty4PZmmMc_PNZHXgDI-9aqVhz7LIMpYGCVhalsxNIZt4/s640/DSCN1336malteCI.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ascending the lower slopes of Broad Peak © stu remensnyder</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEie4J2Xfa9LhQc5Bz5U7_OEbrsd4mYEv6b5vEv-UdX1Xhx95aFRRg83W-fgUWAJORJyPe0TMmG2g3FGRjOS1QqIV0HL_x04bah6iL5VuIuMpTrf3E_a3NFDZbmT_OTuL-V7nCqamBR5VXk/s750/photo+2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEie4J2Xfa9LhQc5Bz5U7_OEbrsd4mYEv6b5vEv-UdX1Xhx95aFRRg83W-fgUWAJORJyPe0TMmG2g3FGRjOS1QqIV0HL_x04bah6iL5VuIuMpTrf3E_a3NFDZbmT_OTuL-V7nCqamBR5VXk/s400/photo+2.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">C1 on Broad Peak © Brad Jackson</td></tr>
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More news shortly!<br />
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Field Touring Alpinehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06854859430334159650noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-996044814107006337.post-1647794531938928022013-06-26T09:12:00.001-04:002013-06-27T08:53:57.796-04:00Broad Peak 2013 update - Team Checks in from BC<object align="middle" classid="clsid:d27cdb6e-ae6d-11cf-96b8-444553540000" codebase="http://download.macromedia.com/pub/shockwave/cabs/flash/swflash.cab#version=8,0,0,0" height="200" id="embed-352x200" width="352"><param name="allowScriptAccess" value="always"></param>
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<i style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 20px;">Mobile Device users:</i><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 20px;"> </span><br style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 20px;" /><i style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 20px;">Please note ipadio is flash-based so you may not be able to hear them here on your mobile devices like iPhones and iPads. We are looking for a fix and hope to have one shortly!</i><br style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 20px;" /><i style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 20px;"><br /></i><i style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 20px;"> In the mean time you can hear them on your mobile device by visiting our channel on the ipadio site itself:<a href="http://www.ipadio.com/channels/StuartRemensnyder" style="color: #6699cc; text-decoration: none;"> FTA Audio Dispatches on ipadio</a></i>Field Touring Alpinehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06854859430334159650noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-996044814107006337.post-73736643155453381572013-06-25T20:58:00.001-04:002013-06-25T20:58:23.185-04:00FTA Broad Peak Update - Trekking towards BC<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<b>Team Safe and Sound</b><br />
Our team is enjoying the trek to BC and everyone is doing well. They have had some hot but clear days and enjoyed views of the peaks along the way. They will be pulling into base camp in the next few days and we look forward to having an update from them when they are settled in. We have no word on the impact of the events in the Nanga Parbat region on any groups in the Baltoro region but to this point there has been none and treks and climbs already under way are proceeding as planned. Decisions are still being made that could affect us and we will simply have to wait and see.<br />
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<b>The Trek to BC</b><br />
Arrival at an 8000m base camp in the Karakoram is quite unlike the treks to any other place on the planet. The glacial avenue on which they walk is bordered by an extraordinary array of peaks from small to tall and from rocky and jagged to snow adorned. By the time they are ensconced in their tents at base camp they will have walked through a century of climbing tales, which have been retold in journals, books and film, and have an understanding of these stories that one can only appreciate fully in person. On arrival at Concordia one can imagine the first expedition to reach there in 1892 being just as awestruck by the density of immense peaks soaring up some 4000m/13000ft above you.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhFr4peX4JhwgS6i6y5PogZgKjvEkbfrMoXcTw4GxJgTRxpM78ot311ty1qqkkSJ0oqhOvL-Ot5ocjoYhONQoLMenHRrDfOmjMHTH7qSEqH1w5Y5UU5P4cRXzjDao2iyTdBGGALei2jqE/s1600/chogalisa.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhFr4peX4JhwgS6i6y5PogZgKjvEkbfrMoXcTw4GxJgTRxpM78ot311ty1qqkkSJ0oqhOvL-Ot5ocjoYhONQoLMenHRrDfOmjMHTH7qSEqH1w5Y5UU5P4cRXzjDao2iyTdBGGALei2jqE/s400/chogalisa.jpg" title="" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chogalisa from Concordia © stu remensnyder</td></tr>
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Looking left, from Concordia, you see the pyramid of K2 nearly the same as it looked to Aleister Crowley and his crew who tackled its northeast ridge in 1902. Turning to your right and seeing the airy crest of Chogalisa, it is hard to imagine that the Duke of Abruzzi made it to within just 150m of the top after having already spent many weeks working on the ridge which bears his name on K2. Straight ahead of you is Gasherbrum IV which remains still one of the most demanding climbs in the world. It lacks but a few meters to have been included in the 8000m club, but this did not stop Walter Bonatti from finding its top in 1958. Situated in-between K2 and Gasherbrum IV lies our objective, Broad Peak. The 12th highest peak on the planet and first summited by Markus Schmuck and his team in 1957. In a few days our team hopes to set foot on this very peak and follow in their footsteps!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5rSUNvSsIDt-tSpvweCgQWZlqE89KqRr1Hw0zmvrDDrDtY8TvlSmp6Mv9J29GE25Ri_H4xLx4SFJn2QBRtXUd0b_v0ivfBYFsvLKJerogaujJ5IR6T_LVQgeotVvVCQmlq4r__3f_ZnM/s1600/photo+3.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5rSUNvSsIDt-tSpvweCgQWZlqE89KqRr1Hw0zmvrDDrDtY8TvlSmp6Mv9J29GE25Ri_H4xLx4SFJn2QBRtXUd0b_v0ivfBYFsvLKJerogaujJ5IR6T_LVQgeotVvVCQmlq4r__3f_ZnM/s400/photo+3.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">K2 from near Concordia © brad jackson</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3mqLkruc38IWCsMd-wBS-D4bf5o-Rmnq1abPVl14hwOTYjY-_UFwI_JMXjG-FZT2o4zhTQDVgkOqGqYxOarVDoVogmontskXQMkYKctiCGymeR_pRemi_p-foG8Ua7vnXTLXvOvcItos/s1600/BPfromCON19k.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3mqLkruc38IWCsMd-wBS-D4bf5o-Rmnq1abPVl14hwOTYjY-_UFwI_JMXjG-FZT2o4zhTQDVgkOqGqYxOarVDoVogmontskXQMkYKctiCGymeR_pRemi_p-foG8Ua7vnXTLXvOvcItos/s1600/BPfromCON19k.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Broad Peak from Concordia © stu remensnyder</td></tr>
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Field Touring Alpinehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06854859430334159650noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-996044814107006337.post-2898380706563067062013-06-23T15:24:00.000-04:002013-06-23T15:24:36.275-04:00Broad Peak 2013 update - Team in Paiju and sad news from Nanga Parbat<div>
Our team is on their 4th day of trekking to base camp and they are safe and sound in Paiju at this time and at this time plan to continue on to BC. They were deeply saddened to hear of the events which took place in Nanga Parbat BC earlier today and express their sympathies for all of the families and friends affected. </div>
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We will have more word tomorrow about movement in general in Pakistan and on the K2 trek in specific. At this time new teams are not moving up the Karakoram from Islamabad but this may change in the days ahead as the situation becomes more clear. Teams in the Baltoro region are continuing on at this time but again this may change in the days ahead. It appears that teams in the Nanga Parbat area are being evacuated, according to the BBC, though many climbers were high on the hill at the time. </div>
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As most offices and ministries were closed today we will all await official word on what is to become of climbers and trekkers on their way in or those already in the mountains. We have seen the many reports around the internet but it is premature to speculate on what will happen from here. The embassies and consulates, Pakistani government, police and military all have a say in the next steps and we will be in communication with staff on the ground to be sure we are up to date on the situation.</div>
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There are no words that will begin to convey the sense of shared loss that we have for the people directly and indirectly affected by the tragic and brutal loss of life in Nanga Parbat BC. We extend our thoughts and prayers to all involved and hope that some sense can be made of this in the days ahead. </div>
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We will update again tomorrow when we have more information.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHL4uwqeCYlwHEyq8U2sQfk0xxmY28Qr2J-AccGcdbAtJDijS4i5T7dnCzyrlIWHDe-k9XVZk0BenRBSEU0B60e91QVdKg1DuBz31SOAZTJaCOHrUD8HNCvkdSHo49kFwqj_EyTDaKd10/s1600/balistan+map.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHL4uwqeCYlwHEyq8U2sQfk0xxmY28Qr2J-AccGcdbAtJDijS4i5T7dnCzyrlIWHDe-k9XVZk0BenRBSEU0B60e91QVdKg1DuBz31SOAZTJaCOHrUD8HNCvkdSHo49kFwqj_EyTDaKd10/s1600/balistan+map.jpg" width="95%" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A map of the region from Nanga Parbat to Broad Peak with Skardu located in-between</td></tr>
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Field Touring Alpinehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06854859430334159650noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-996044814107006337.post-64806312660244007202013-06-23T08:03:00.001-04:002013-06-23T16:11:25.667-04:00Broad Peak 2013 update - Team calls in from Paiju<object align="middle" classid="clsid:d27cdb6e-ae6d-11cf-96b8-444553540000" codebase="http://download.macromedia.com/pub/shockwave/cabs/flash/swflash.cab#version=8,0,0,0" height="200" id="embed-352x200" width="352"><param name="allowScriptAccess" value="always"></param>
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<i>Mobile Device users:</i> <br />
<i>Please note ipadio is flash-based so you may not be able to hear them here on your mobile devices like iPhones and iPads. We are looking for a fix and hope to have one shortly!</i><br />
<i><br /></i><i> In the mean time you can hear them on your mobile device by visiting our channel on the ipadio site itself:<a href="http://www.ipadio.com/channels/StuartRemensnyder"> FTA Audio Dispatches on ipadio</a></i>Field Touring Alpinehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06854859430334159650noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-996044814107006337.post-86373269040248752532013-06-21T10:26:00.000-04:002013-06-21T10:26:11.295-04:00Broad Peak 2013 - trek underway at last!<b><br /></b>
<b>En route to base camp finally!</b><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2dxloNHEuNIxoC0u-CvDvk1GrlEMSpnollaSYwm4e0xuzNB8WTPLW96-RhgBRq8nkTkG1otmNM5suEWCiRxpHg3fAUMEl7eGYZDc7Gu2XRarsvXP46ZvImNCkuUH_RsbR3AGt465S4NE/s1600/askole.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2dxloNHEuNIxoC0u-CvDvk1GrlEMSpnollaSYwm4e0xuzNB8WTPLW96-RhgBRq8nkTkG1otmNM5suEWCiRxpHg3fAUMEl7eGYZDc7Gu2XRarsvXP46ZvImNCkuUH_RsbR3AGt465S4NE/s400/askole.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Askole and the first views of the Karokoram © field touring alpine</td></tr>
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Our team got off yesterday after well too many days waiting in Skardu for the military authorities to clear members of not only our team but several others. They are under way with trekking permits at this time so that they cannot lose precious days of acclimatization and the climbing permit is being confirmed shortly.<br />
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In nearly 20 years of working in Pakistan we have never seen such a delay for a team and we hope that this does not become the new norm as it is already challenging enough to coordinate all of the details for climb in Pakistan. Trekking permits remain simple to arrange but for some reason this year the climbing permits have been more difficult to have done in a timely manner. It remains true, as far we and our staff in Pakistan knows, that no group already in Pakistan has ever had a permit not be confirmed. Delays of a day or two have certainly happened before for us due to holidays or weekends etc, but there seem to be more significant delays than in any year in recent memory. Certainly 30-40 years ago these types of delays were expected in Pakistan and still are today in several other of the world's high altitude climbing locations (including the TAR in China ).<br />
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Let us hope this is not a return to a time of uncertainty and delays as this will bode poorly for climbing in the Karakoram. In the end we are climbing in a military zone and all decisions are made by the military and for reasons only known to them. Just one more bureaucratic crevasse to be crossed on the way to the top of the 12th highest peak on the planet!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6OzhehpwdyXPi5QDgM2g-xs3Pg74ZwVOv6c3Hx71uSfMqTI8eQN4R6JzTraI9MoD0BVxAxeJbskTccIJKKziRAzRLtSzZXg2IYtLWGcH-brizceoqrDEKijeCb3kIUQbXYksfCfdDOJA/s1600/askolespeedy600.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6OzhehpwdyXPi5QDgM2g-xs3Pg74ZwVOv6c3Hx71uSfMqTI8eQN4R6JzTraI9MoD0BVxAxeJbskTccIJKKziRAzRLtSzZXg2IYtLWGcH-brizceoqrDEKijeCb3kIUQbXYksfCfdDOJA/s640/askolespeedy600.jpg" width="425" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Porters in Askole may be "speedy" but the permit process is not! © stu remensnyder</td></tr>
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<b>Trekking days</b><br />
It will be a welcome relief for our team to leave behind the comfort of soft beds and the internet, trade them for rocky and lumpy ground covered by 3/4 of an inch of ensolite pads and to be served recently slaughtered goat for supper! The views of trucks and motorcycles in Skardu will be replaced with the sweeping and majestic mountains of the Karakoram. They will be heading to Jhula today and into Paiju tomorrow and along the way get first views of the Masherbrum Group, Paiju peak, the Trango towers, cross the Biafo Glacier and make one of the great river crossings in the Kararkoram.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIRHwbY69j12sFNwT_FzOg2TIZMaL-UF1ElIdhFmX4WCNtLZ-UDioqLjAHeq5MNljZo0f0toqeZTbjYB93iIGpj8W-ErZf5PUuyGHNC-qm_Ruxw1eN31CX75fcY9HCgYcbs6fIfB2u5cg/s1600/portersaskole1000w.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIRHwbY69j12sFNwT_FzOg2TIZMaL-UF1ElIdhFmX4WCNtLZ-UDioqLjAHeq5MNljZo0f0toqeZTbjYB93iIGpj8W-ErZf5PUuyGHNC-qm_Ruxw1eN31CX75fcY9HCgYcbs6fIfB2u5cg/s400/portersaskole1000w.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Porters awaiting their assignments in Askole © stu remensnyder</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7MEkHfFfpMVW_TK5QNUVz8YT8BP-TJJRNwKMdg7F9KgfFJqE3yGy8IsxRfzlFCgkBfcGLKF69geh7QPPYCIAosHWMXBauCWfTMecaBdjNv6u-Cxcfr98PRv0tcmMgGGUsaWMkBnZam1I/s1600/biafobridgesign.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7MEkHfFfpMVW_TK5QNUVz8YT8BP-TJJRNwKMdg7F9KgfFJqE3yGy8IsxRfzlFCgkBfcGLKF69geh7QPPYCIAosHWMXBauCWfTMecaBdjNv6u-Cxcfr98PRv0tcmMgGGUsaWMkBnZam1I/s400/biafobridgesign.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Biafo Foot Bridge welcome note! © stu remensnyder</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxvVVkKZa0LhD2pIu2jVgS0XvFLpxdthysla_2U9qx8IpQUw-mLn9_3welTZjuG0G0Bsrbmaipm3FL2VWb7xbZj4c5RmdiTTWUkN7eSrBfvbCYDPL2ReF3gkZ6Ww4h4QI9BNeyw4bm0aA/s1600/biafobridge600w.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxvVVkKZa0LhD2pIu2jVgS0XvFLpxdthysla_2U9qx8IpQUw-mLn9_3welTZjuG0G0Bsrbmaipm3FL2VWb7xbZj4c5RmdiTTWUkN7eSrBfvbCYDPL2ReF3gkZ6Ww4h4QI9BNeyw4bm0aA/s640/biafobridge600w.jpg" width="425" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Biafo Foot Bridge between Askole and Jhula © stu remensnyder</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAirIf7rRZqT0T1TzEbSTThC_kwZQOC1iJhGXxOip6LZkd437YHjuo5l5mJ2Hj_LczsuXwkC86ECP4GcN2N8SAH9nH8b8r-doll-_gfsjcQ1J7eMftbMDeh7mrOxHf5de_0er-nZQOybM/s1600/biafobrxing.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAirIf7rRZqT0T1TzEbSTThC_kwZQOC1iJhGXxOip6LZkd437YHjuo5l5mJ2Hj_LczsuXwkC86ECP4GcN2N8SAH9nH8b8r-doll-_gfsjcQ1J7eMftbMDeh7mrOxHf5de_0er-nZQOybM/s400/biafobrxing.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Porters with full loads crossing the Biafo Foot Bridge © stu remensnyder</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS1KyZ6Vw2S_wQL4Z6EYxlcRfyy93djJaf_jTKQDfN8AKkMBBO7Zlu9ahi2UwGO6vh4JJ2aFE2orMkc3ARE5h7O88msDb6UQOdJDn_Tf968ZuYjGP3g6upbpM7_gyHGkHFzPpSbkRAIDM/s1600/bp03r3s18julha.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="272" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS1KyZ6Vw2S_wQL4Z6EYxlcRfyy93djJaf_jTKQDfN8AKkMBBO7Zlu9ahi2UwGO6vh4JJ2aFE2orMkc3ARE5h7O88msDb6UQOdJDn_Tf968ZuYjGP3g6upbpM7_gyHGkHFzPpSbkRAIDM/s400/bp03r3s18julha.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Part of the effort to keep the impact of trekkers at a minimum in Jhula</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrh5lDpRKj085yQrFoY7mhbXTTN7g_u5bH9xjAQbBIokzHqE0cz62hRu1vgcF9VUZTTThEPC1A5wLQXgsWLudQ50Kegop4GBJnPZWWrmx3LdK1CM9QgAyct4QbNbkO_zfBR_clPo5MulQ/s1600/bp03trangonameless09cr.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrh5lDpRKj085yQrFoY7mhbXTTN7g_u5bH9xjAQbBIokzHqE0cz62hRu1vgcF9VUZTTThEPC1A5wLQXgsWLudQ50Kegop4GBJnPZWWrmx3LdK1CM9QgAyct4QbNbkO_zfBR_clPo5MulQ/s640/bp03trangonameless09cr.jpg" width="425" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Views ahead for our team include the awesome Trango towers. </td></tr>
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<br />Field Touring Alpinehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06854859430334159650noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-996044814107006337.post-75447989082384842212013-06-20T04:53:00.001-04:002013-06-21T09:38:51.611-04:00Broad Peak 2013 update - On the road to Askole<object align="middle" classid="clsid:d27cdb6e-ae6d-11cf-96b8-444553540000" codebase="http://download.macromedia.com/pub/shockwave/cabs/flash/swflash.cab#version=8,0,0,0" height="200" id="embed-352x200" width="352"><param name="allowScriptAccess" value="always"></param>
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<i>Mobile Device users:</i><br />
<i>Please note ipadio is flash-based so you may not be able to hear them here on your mobile devices like iPhones and iPads. We are looking for a fix and hope to have one shortly!</i><br />
<i><br /></i><i> In the mean time you can hear them on your mobile device by visiting our channel on the ipadio site itself:<a href="http://www.ipadio.com/channels/StuartRemensnyder"> FTA Audio Dispatches on ipadio</a></i>Field Touring Alpinehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06854859430334159650noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-996044814107006337.post-50027949563528446142013-06-17T08:00:00.000-04:002013-06-17T08:00:11.164-04:00Broad Peak 2013 - Waiting Days in Skardu<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Skardu Days</div>
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Our team is headed off to Askole tomorrow after a bureacratic delay due to the permitting process. A process which seems to a new challenge each year and one that requires patience and a willingness to accept the inevitable challenges of climbing in a military zone. I <a href="http://fieldtouring.blogspot.com/2012/06/fta-broad-peak-2012-in-askole.html">wrote a year ago</a> about the process and commented on the fact that unlike many for countries, to climb in Pakistan is not something one can decide a few days ahead, get a flight, pack your gear and go. There are many weeks and often months worth of documentation, emails, visits to embassies and ministries and even then small things that need to be worked out on a personal level in Pakistan. Shortly they will be off in 4x4's and headed for the trail head and all of the paperwork will be left behind!</div>
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In the meantime they have enjoyed a few nice days of the past days including walks about town, hikes in the nearby hills and are all feeling well and gaining acclimatization to 2500m/8,200ft. Scott sent in a few images of their days and we hope you enjoy! </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Indus from the hotel in Skardu</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Supper at the Concordia Hotel in Skardu</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the ride from Islamabad to Skardu</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ron on a day hike above Skardu</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Scott at his day hike high point!</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ron and Gunga on the day hike</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">at the ministry waiting, waiting waiting!</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gunga, the first mongolian woman to summit Everest</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">With Gunga</td></tr>
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<br />Field Touring Alpinehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06854859430334159650noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-996044814107006337.post-13574841687733897282013-06-16T02:45:00.001-04:002013-06-16T08:52:36.312-04:00Broad Peak 2013 update - Skardu Acclimatization Day<br />
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<i>Mobile Device users:</i><br />
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<i> In the mean time you can hear them on your mobile device by visiting our channel on the ipadio site itself:<a href="http://www.ipadio.com/channels/StuartRemensnyder"> FTA Audio Dispatches on ipadio</a></i>Field Touring Alpinehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06854859430334159650noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-996044814107006337.post-40655880950445579182013-06-14T13:22:00.000-04:002013-06-14T13:22:23.186-04:00Broad Peak 2013 - Skardu!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9PByNkQ2O6ftZrtAjEluO6876HT6XQnkENugpFXIkB3CJ5OPtKG7JCwLjAqsK33o6O_Hk3W_4KF5NVdO4aVlCTul7ZOU5bn4QObrR_gZWKGFSJBTlpId_JnWRg3xnoHHvya3xx5XqaCw/s1600/BP2013teamphoto-sm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9PByNkQ2O6ftZrtAjEluO6876HT6XQnkENugpFXIkB3CJ5OPtKG7JCwLjAqsK33o6O_Hk3W_4KF5NVdO4aVlCTul7ZOU5bn4QObrR_gZWKGFSJBTlpId_JnWRg3xnoHHvya3xx5XqaCw/s640/BP2013teamphoto-sm.jpg" width="95%" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">FTA Broad Peak 2013 in Skardu - John, Brian, Ron and Scott</td></tr>
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<span style="color: blue;"><b><span style="font-size: large;">Gear Day</span></b></span><br />
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The team arrived late yesterday afternoon and after a good sleep had a very busy day today which included gear checks, shopping, packing and repacking. Among the many things they have done today are setting up tents and checking them to be sure they are in good shape, sending out for repairs those that need a little TLC, testing stoves and fuel to make sure there will be no flareups on the hill, checking and testing the emergency oxygen systems, replenishing the med kit and checking over the repair kit, setting up the solar panels and charging up the Sherpa 50, picking up batteries and spare toilet paper, selecting a few dynamic climbing ropes and route fixing gear, and meeting the military liason officer (LO) who will be joining our team to base camp (and maybe up onto the hill).<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9QDIlReRQLS2hxDiUJkLrKncEOJjiC2w4Yu9O1muclIS26bYccGnI06gBqZsMGhz9Pits3jOl2DYhbBSCAwcpVqt2dRmvTrsxXcXMqgWltxxyuMfvc-Jxi657uawDena80iA-w3k4lPs/s1600/DSCN1189sharpsat.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9QDIlReRQLS2hxDiUJkLrKncEOJjiC2w4Yu9O1muclIS26bYccGnI06gBqZsMGhz9Pits3jOl2DYhbBSCAwcpVqt2dRmvTrsxXcXMqgWltxxyuMfvc-Jxi657uawDena80iA-w3k4lPs/s640/DSCN1189sharpsat.jpg" title="" width="95%" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Satpara Lake above Skardu © stu remensnyder</td></tr>
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<span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Teaming </b></span></span><br />
These days spent working together to get ready to head to the mountains are important ones for the team to begin to come together and learn how they can rely on each other and what special skills they each can contribute. As they move from the relative security of the streets of Skardu to the steep slopes of the 12th highest peak on the planet they will need to begin to rely on each other more and more. Learning personalities and demeanor will enable them to cooperate better and keep a watchful eye out for changes that might indicate dehydration, hypothermia or altitude illness. Every meal and every tent set up together improves the safety and chances for success. The team is working to get ready to leave tomorrow morning for Askole but they will not rush and if they need another day, to accomplish all of the important tasks, this will only strengthen them as a group. Our teams often head up to Satpara lake for a walk and a tea house break and this is a nice chance to gain some altitude as the lake is situated at approximately <span class="st">2,500m / 8,200ft.</span><br />
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<span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span class="st">Route to Askole</span></span></span><br />
<span class="st">The days ahead will include one of the most rugged drives we know of for approaches to 8000m climbs. Dusty plains, rocky passes and river crossings abound. While the Karakoram highway may have seemed a rough road, the team will shortly find that was smooth in comparison. Ron has been to K2 in 2009 so knows what is ahead but Brian, John and Scott are in for a treat!</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3WcpOZeYng2YAOhtT5JAnKStbVpS8RQD4gHG-Pt_fRBJyAKK_vs-M8fugvzR1C6Ays2dSfaFW1mmYTz11DNeGuckPovjJ_gbu-FFVkkOuCsJvDothZ6uvYh5l-QvXXYoxM_EYVTS9VBc/s1600/jeepscrossingbralducrop-cr.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3WcpOZeYng2YAOhtT5JAnKStbVpS8RQD4gHG-Pt_fRBJyAKK_vs-M8fugvzR1C6Ays2dSfaFW1mmYTz11DNeGuckPovjJ_gbu-FFVkkOuCsJvDothZ6uvYh5l-QvXXYoxM_EYVTS9VBc/s640/jeepscrossingbralducrop-cr.jpg" width="95%" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Crossing the Braldu river on the way to Askole</td></tr>
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<span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-size: large;">Updates</span></span><br />
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We will have another update tomorrow when we know the team's departure schedule and will be updating every few days the rest of the summer along with images from past trips, audio dispatches from the team in the field and we hope you enjoy the vicarious experience!<br />
<br />Field Touring Alpinehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06854859430334159650noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-996044814107006337.post-67204026309644885632013-06-14T12:09:00.001-04:002013-06-16T08:53:01.724-04:00Broad Peak 2013 update - team checks in from Skardu<object align="middle" classid="clsid:d27cdb6e-ae6d-11cf-96b8-444553540000" codebase="http://download.macromedia.com/pub/shockwave/cabs/flash/swflash.cab#version=8,0,0,0" height="200" id="embed-352x200" width="352"><param name="allowScriptAccess" value="always"></param>
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<i> In the mean time you can hear them on your mobile device by visiting our channel on the ipadio site itself:<a href="http://www.ipadio.com/channels/StuartRemensnyder"> FTA Audio Dispatches on ipadio</a></i>Field Touring Alpinehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06854859430334159650noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-996044814107006337.post-88991872224690933212013-06-13T10:00:00.000-04:002013-06-14T08:30:46.910-04:00Broad Peak 2013 under way!<b><span style="color: blue; font-size: large;">En route to Skardu</span></b><br />
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Our Broad Peak team has assembled over the last few days in blistering hot ( 43°C /110°F ) Islamabad. After a few days of visits to ministries for visa extensions, trips back to the airport for delayed luggage, and a little sightseeing, they have headed for the cooler climes of <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Skardu" target="_blank">Skardu</a> at 2200m/7300ft.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYlmVn5nXjNgBcWzI1Pv_Cg8mbHGFq3IlxjJ-Ahg7zWLZTXW5ZpVmKj53eCMC8aaKlq6CSfRMd6b8k2wHG7VemV1Q5P8GYC5IlzqyZJf5t5Bue_u0VOIwJeIuCumRKIhs3yGgaKTJGB_o/s1600/DSC_0504-shrp.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="222" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYlmVn5nXjNgBcWzI1Pv_Cg8mbHGFq3IlxjJ-Ahg7zWLZTXW5ZpVmKj53eCMC8aaKlq6CSfRMd6b8k2wHG7VemV1Q5P8GYC5IlzqyZJf5t5Bue_u0VOIwJeIuCumRKIhs3yGgaKTJGB_o/s400/DSC_0504-shrp.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The mighty Indus River seen from the Concordia Hotel in Skardu © Brad jackson</td></tr>
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Skardu is a relaxing but busy town and the jumping off point for most climbers and trekkers headed to K2, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum II, Nanga Parbat and Spantik. FTA's Dave Hancock has posted a fun tour of the town by motorcycle and we invite you to join him for a short tour so you can get the feel of the town:<br />
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<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=whZnkevYPyA&feature=plcp" target="_blank">Join FTA's Dave Hancock for a motorcycle ride in Skardu</a><br />
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<a name='more'></a>After the 23hours of rough driving on the famed Karakoram Highway, spread out over 2 days, they will be greeted by a relatively brisk temperature (26°C/78°F) . They will then have two days of sorting tents, stoves & rope, making final shopping trips to the markets and scouring local shops for last minute bits of gear and clothing.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">one of the many brigades to cross en route to K2 base camp! © brad jackson</td></tr>
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By the 16th they will be heading to Askole and will begin the climb in earnest with the 80+km trek in on along the mighty Braldu and Biaho rivers, over the Baltoro and Godwin-Austen Glaciers to reach their rocky, icy, moving chunk of glacier called base camp!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4L0pIG8BSxKqKPwm9pApNzPrMArbfjfm9EMgez3yxrPrwfti1b3fcoNRM5bbjrNsRgDgq9gHv-Dx3UzdMQesyDv9yxQ4IqDqG9vxkpVjubTQoZ5HlkYWg8rftoKrEOTo3GOcj9OLwh6g/s1600/photo.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="228" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4L0pIG8BSxKqKPwm9pApNzPrMArbfjfm9EMgez3yxrPrwfti1b3fcoNRM5bbjrNsRgDgq9gHv-Dx3UzdMQesyDv9yxQ4IqDqG9vxkpVjubTQoZ5HlkYWg8rftoKrEOTo3GOcj9OLwh6g/s400/photo.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Broad Peak BC © brad jackson</td></tr>
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We will hope to have a nice update from the team after they arrive in Skardu, have a chance to get a good night's sleep and a chance to orient themselves.<br />
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<b><span style="color: blue; font-size: large;">K2 base Camp trek, August 01 - CONFIRMED WITH LIMITED SPACES</span></b><br />
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For those still hearing to join us for a trek to K2 BC we do have spaces left on our confirmed trek starting August 1st in Islamabad. The fee is just 3350USD and we have room for about 3 more!<br />
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<a href="http://www.fieldtouringalpine.com/programs/treks/k2-bc-trek">K2 BC Trek Info on main FTA site</a><br />
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The New York Times had <a href="http://www.nytimes.com/2010/01/17/travel/17K2.html?pagewanted=all&_r=0" target="_blank">a good article on the K2 trek</a> a few years ago and it is a good read!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3ouAJFh3hvPgQiqzx5V3rkWgPD0L6Ii2b2Utbn_gGibAlQmMKMKwLVJVB5KBHsPFhyzfZs3ivkb6tj0xC8sPHYOWATCPIfEnQzdGreyGpsjZRgJH3bad4a6hgkKyVWbLbp1rjC3mZ9a4/s1600/k2frombp03cr.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3ouAJFh3hvPgQiqzx5V3rkWgPD0L6Ii2b2Utbn_gGibAlQmMKMKwLVJVB5KBHsPFhyzfZs3ivkb6tj0xC8sPHYOWATCPIfEnQzdGreyGpsjZRgJH3bad4a6hgkKyVWbLbp1rjC3mZ9a4/s400/k2frombp03cr.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<b><span style="color: blue; font-size: large;">Farther ahead - Ama Dablam, Aconcagua, Ecuador and more</span></b><br />
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We have lots of trips coming up in the year ahead and encourage you to look over them all if nothing more than for the great images! Hopefully one of the trips suits you just right and we look forward to helping you reach a goal, achieve a dream or begin a new adventure chapter in life. We have trips and treks for all levels of climber or walker so let us know how we can serve you best!<br />
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<a href="http://www.fieldtouringalpine.com/programs/treks">http://www.fieldtouringalpine.com/programs/treks</a><br />
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<a href="http://www.fieldtouringalpine.com/programs/expeditions">http://www.fieldtouringalpine.com/programs/expeditions</a><br />
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More news shortly!<br />
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Dave & Stu and the FTA crewField Touring Alpinehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06854859430334159650noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-996044814107006337.post-30159893699209902112013-03-13T11:58:00.000-04:002013-03-13T11:58:00.006-04:00FTA Upcoming trips<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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After a long winter holiday in the office we are cranking things up once again for our summer and autumn trips. We hope that you can join us for a trip this year and if not that you can enjoy following along (and dreaming of when you can join us!)<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4L0pIG8BSxKqKPwm9pApNzPrMArbfjfm9EMgez3yxrPrwfti1b3fcoNRM5bbjrNsRgDgq9gHv-Dx3UzdMQesyDv9yxQ4IqDqG9vxkpVjubTQoZ5HlkYWg8rftoKrEOTo3GOcj9OLwh6g/s1600/photo.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="228" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4L0pIG8BSxKqKPwm9pApNzPrMArbfjfm9EMgez3yxrPrwfti1b3fcoNRM5bbjrNsRgDgq9gHv-Dx3UzdMQesyDv9yxQ4IqDqG9vxkpVjubTQoZ5HlkYWg8rftoKrEOTo3GOcj9OLwh6g/s400/photo.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">base camp at Broad Peak © Brad Jackson</td></tr>
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This summer we already have Broad Peak, Spantik and K2 treks in the works and are looking for a few more great members for each trip.<br />
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<b>Broad Peak</b><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9I1sP032IK9fWX5DS7lghen-xqNdrwYRgbAO4O04EXJy6KTKynj9bFZVXdeXDSpvOIp3wz-fOb4_kpcrVVqr_T-iYdxopb14_chixbiBerIgyPNJTP7WNg-Uz0NG542TtM9SFjbiomKA/s1600/BPfromCON19k.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9I1sP032IK9fWX5DS7lghen-xqNdrwYRgbAO4O04EXJy6KTKynj9bFZVXdeXDSpvOIp3wz-fOb4_kpcrVVqr_T-iYdxopb14_chixbiBerIgyPNJTP7WNg-Uz0NG542TtM9SFjbiomKA/s200/BPfromCON19k.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Broad Peak from Concordia © stu remensnyder</td></tr>
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This will be the 10th anniversary of our first 8000m peak summit which was on Broad Peak in 2003 by member Alex Txicon. Alex has gone on to become a very experienced and successful 8000m climber with summits on nine 8000m peaks and just knocked off the first winter ascent of Leila Peak! Everyone has to start somewhere and we hope you will start with us on Broad Peak!<br />
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<a href="http://www.fieldtouringalpine.com/programs/8000m-expeditions/broad-peak">Broad Peak info on our main site</a><br />
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<b>Spantik</b><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkarb2kwnya37lcK0I0qmYKjToIxC771M76mF0vZaI-7xxRV84_SgqUdsmrJ1eUeqhRYqGVzieRLQXOrURbgWUnDDp9rzQCMbGBn0K89Dgy1aSZ7-_QmhbYb4vrEtItZblVGJvhLFUVbo/s1600/avigraceandyc1spantik.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="136" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkarb2kwnya37lcK0I0qmYKjToIxC771M76mF0vZaI-7xxRV84_SgqUdsmrJ1eUeqhRYqGVzieRLQXOrURbgWUnDDp9rzQCMbGBn0K89Dgy1aSZ7-_QmhbYb4vrEtItZblVGJvhLFUVbo/s200/avigraceandyc1spantik.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">High on Spantik © Brad Jackson</td></tr>
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We have been to Spantik on a regular basis over the last 10 years and always look forward to getting back to the 8km long ridge on this fantastic 7000m peak. This is a trip that is suitable for climbers with relatively little technical experience but one that will challenge even seasoned climbers with its altitude, cold and demanding summit day.<br />
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<a href="http://www.fieldtouringalpine.com/programs/expeditions/spantik">Spantikinfo on our main site</a> <br />
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<b>Ama Dablam, Island Peak and Everest Base Camp </b><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxgPZH_KnmubpnSE_W8TVzknpOgXdog0L6fiNnObjR2fOKUYbeA5biXJYo_Rq_H23oo4tiMYBSnhwBzLFpFm0xbZ200n4CTYT3HF6FXA074OjF7acwE-72DR6YCQ2UsnykgPBH2SmZtxI/s1600/sun_shot_c2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxgPZH_KnmubpnSE_W8TVzknpOgXdog0L6fiNnObjR2fOKUYbeA5biXJYo_Rq_H23oo4tiMYBSnhwBzLFpFm0xbZ200n4CTYT3HF6FXA074OjF7acwE-72DR6YCQ2UsnykgPBH2SmZtxI/s200/sun_shot_c2.jpg" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View from Ama Dablam © stu remensnyder</td></tr>
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In the autumn we have our 10th year in a row planned on Ama Dablam in November and we know of no other western companies that have run 10 straight years on the 6865m peak.<br />
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We will be running a concurrent Everest base camp trek so family and friends can join you as you make your way to the peak and meet you when you are done to celebrate with a yak sizzler in Namche!<br />
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<a href="http://www.fieldtouringalpine.com/programs/expeditions/ama-dablam">Ama Dablam info on our main site</a> <br />
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<b>Khumbu Peaks and Passes</b><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8LWrFbk3wI7PJTJqGkStxV-DBvFiX9ezczLVxgXvZhnLAbc9ny-nua1j29kzyuf1hmZOHlxX1xnweipquwkM39_q4nk2-C-L1LFkHNX9WVomqKVpMUPzqR5w6R3YK3x74qtAxbmMXq3E/s1600/stupasabovedingboche-cr-sr.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8LWrFbk3wI7PJTJqGkStxV-DBvFiX9ezczLVxgXvZhnLAbc9ny-nua1j29kzyuf1hmZOHlxX1xnweipquwkM39_q4nk2-C-L1LFkHNX9WVomqKVpMUPzqR5w6R3YK3x74qtAxbmMXq3E/s200/stupasabovedingboche-cr-sr.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stupas near Pangboche</td></tr>
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For intrepid trekkers or for those looking for a less technical expedition we offer the Island Peak option during the Everest base camp trek or a complete set of moderate peaks in one trip with our Khumbu Peaks and Passes which we are looking forward to running for our third straight year in October. Both trips have trekking-only components for family and friends who just want to enjoy the high mountain air but not the steep slopes!<br />
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<a href="http://www.fieldtouringalpine.com/programs/expeditions/khumbu-peaks-and-passes">Khumbu Peaks & Passes info on our main site</a> <br />
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<a href="http://www.fieldtouringalpine.com/programs/expeditions/island-peak">Everest Base Camp and Island Peak info on our main site</a><br />
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<b>Tharpu Chuli (Tent Peak)</b><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicCLQBgQoi0YENRVfhAM9Rscp07YhYFEG6QOoGvfL-RzYsevg82ZZRkRK2WauIjy8F4aWA3usTQ4v3Ejh6mH4YhLJ9Ylo3AFv0EkDO1ALfuyeBmzU9Xui9nJNPrX6-h0sW_oYpbCMGvTs/s1600/summit+ridge-cr.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="132" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicCLQBgQoi0YENRVfhAM9Rscp07YhYFEG6QOoGvfL-RzYsevg82ZZRkRK2WauIjy8F4aWA3usTQ4v3Ejh6mH4YhLJ9Ylo3AFv0EkDO1ALfuyeBmzU9Xui9nJNPrX6-h0sW_oYpbCMGvTs/s200/summit+ridge-cr.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tharpu Chuli summit ridge</td></tr>
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An often forgotten peak that is worth the attention is Tharpu Chuli (or "Tent Peak") which lies in the center of the Annapurna Sanctuary. This shark's fin of a peak rises up to just under 6000m and blesses any climber with extraordinary views of Annapurna's southwest face as well as an amazing 360° view of the massif which includes Machapucharre, Annapurna IV, Singhu Chuli and much more.<br />
<a href="http://www.fieldtouringalpine.com/programs/expeditions/tharpu-chuli">Tharpu Chuli info on our main site</a> <br />
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<b>So Much More</b><br />
<b> </b>In 2013 and 2014 we have an array of trips to countries around the world including Nepal India, Ecuador, Aconcagua, Kilimanjaro. We have a trips for trekkers and climbers of all abilities so we can be sure to find one that fits your challenge and adventure level.<br />
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Enjoy looking through our list of trips and let us know how we can help you to have your dream trip!<br />
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<a href="http://www.fieldtouringalpine.com/programs/expeditions">Expeditions and Climbs at our main site</a><br />
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<a href="http://www.fieldtouringalpine.com/programs/treks">Treks and Walks at our main site</a><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ama Dablam BC © stu remensnyder</td></tr>
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<br />Field Touring Alpinehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06854859430334159650noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-996044814107006337.post-44337971598042522062012-08-20T21:45:00.000-04:002012-08-20T21:45:17.485-04:00FTA Spantik - Summits!<b>Spantik update - Summits!</b><br />
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Brad called in from the top to let us know that he and Grace ached to summit after 11hours of very hard work in cold conditions. Avi had gone very well to reach a personal high point at 6600m before turning back to be sure he had enough good energy to reach camp safely. All three said it was the most demanding deep snow climbing they had done and was hip deep the whole way. They were treated to great views the whole day but accompanied by a stiff wind that made it difficult to stay warm and required numerous stops to warm up chilly toes.<br />
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About three hours later Brad called back again to let us know that all three of them had returned safely back to the enough camp and were looking forward to a good sleep and huge breakfast. They will take the next two days to descend and clean the hill of tents and personal gear and enjoy a good rest day before heading back it to Skardu.<br />
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Images and full story details coming soon when Brad has a few minutes and warmer fingers!<br />
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<b>Upcoming trips </b><br />
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With the conclusion of the Spantik trip we will turn our attention to the upcoming trips to. Stok Kangri in September, Khumbu Peaks and Passes in October, and Everest base camp, Island Peak and Ama Dablam trips in November. We have limited spaces on all of the trips so contact us if you fancy a great trip under the leadership of Chris and Samira Szymiec!<br />
<br />Field Touring Alpinehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06854859430334159650noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-996044814107006337.post-44808439496651046712012-08-16T07:33:00.002-04:002012-08-16T07:33:22.636-04:00FTA Spantik 2012 - Summit Push Under Way!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3UTpgdTmpgQXCzEezg9stD9R-eyapeLyPTz-6GrCVLWlRbKIjsNZD_C_oI0-901ZJKphOYdqjQ6OAB-U97lOMYAv6-pw4q-iG_Ea1S-lbKhnaY9b94kDiK1mHEk0_TCOzSUMI-4LEkUw/s1600/spantik-c3-tc-cr.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="223" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3UTpgdTmpgQXCzEezg9stD9R-eyapeLyPTz-6GrCVLWlRbKIjsNZD_C_oI0-901ZJKphOYdqjQ6OAB-U97lOMYAv6-pw4q-iG_Ea1S-lbKhnaY9b94kDiK1mHEk0_TCOzSUMI-4LEkUw/s400/spantik-c3-tc-cr.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Camp three on 7027m Spantik</td></tr>
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Our team is in camp 2 and ready to make a summit bid in a few days if they can make their way through the deep snow which they have been encountering on the hill. Brad, Grace and Avi will hope to move up to camp three tomorrow, where they have already deposited a tent and some supplies, and assess the conditions. It may be that they need to spend one day pushing the route part way to the top and wanding it so they can get an early start on the 19th or 20th. The weather looks to be mostly clear and calm over the next 4-5 days so that is good news.<br />
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Noel is resting at base camp after having his knees act up on him and he is using the days to enjoy some short ambles and read a few good books with the phenomenal backdrop of the nearby mountains and glaciers.<br />
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Brad will plan to call in each day on the push so stay tuned!Field Touring Alpinehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06854859430334159650noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-996044814107006337.post-44620207210143514552012-08-11T10:43:00.000-04:002012-08-11T10:51:01.288-04:00FTA Spantik 2012 - C1 established!<br />
<b>FTA Spantik 2012 Update</b><br />
Brad called in this morning to let us know that all is well at Spantik and that they are on their first round of acclimitizations with plans to ascend to camp 1 today and then move up to camp 2 for 2 nights before returning to base camp. After that they will look for the good weather window and a summit attempt!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTWtxu4Yoxw267pTaFO2acmtWuG-oSI9TFw2C0RDrYetmFOCzLN5VmvjZYltApMBmczFjkWIJFiELOaDWWu3gCrA4FAzJnyNvPlzKQd7gpNfDQEh2F2cWRT57kGbPb4Ds9RY8ZaAkQVyk/s1600/avigracec1spantik.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTWtxu4Yoxw267pTaFO2acmtWuG-oSI9TFw2C0RDrYetmFOCzLN5VmvjZYltApMBmczFjkWIJFiELOaDWWu3gCrA4FAzJnyNvPlzKQd7gpNfDQEh2F2cWRT57kGbPb4Ds9RY8ZaAkQVyk/s400/avigracec1spantik.JPG" width="500" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Avi and Grace enjoying the fine day high on Spantik © brad jackson</td></tr>
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<b>Upcoming trips - confirmed with spaces!</b><br />
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We are in full swing here in the FTA office with Spantik well under
way and already making preparations for our confirmed trips
to Stok Kangri in Sept, Khumbu Peaks and Passes in Oct and Ama Dablam,
Island Peak & Everes<b>t </b>BC in November. We do have limited
spaces remaining on these trips so let us know if you want to join us
for a fun trek, moderate climb or demanding ascent!<br />
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As
well we have already begun to accept applications for our trip to
Ecuador and Argentina in Nov, Jan & Feb as well as Broad Peak,
G2, Spantik and K2 bc for 2013. Check out the full array of trips on our
main site: <a href="http://www.fieldtouringalpine.com/">www.fieldtouringalpine.com</a> or email at "info@fieldtouring.com" us for a custom adventure!<br />
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<b>Brad's Blog from Spantik</b><br />
We'll expect a full report and pics when they are back down and in the meantime Brad has sent a few notes and pics from the first days at base camp...enjoy!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtVjkUefj5FqMHc1LryNsH10pJSe4RhEduHViwT_O1etVZTlvU84P57k8e6vQm_KyB6qlUPs_xdW9slfB48mGmZSUOcS0nRlbWd8LV3_c6-uVtQnhZaHQMzh3l5fTOfCxAZ3VtRhf62eA/s1600/ftateamcamp1spantik.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtVjkUefj5FqMHc1LryNsH10pJSe4RhEduHViwT_O1etVZTlvU84P57k8e6vQm_KyB6qlUPs_xdW9slfB48mGmZSUOcS0nRlbWd8LV3_c6-uVtQnhZaHQMzh3l5fTOfCxAZ3VtRhf62eA/s400/ftateamcamp1spantik.JPG" width="500" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">FTA Spantik 2012 team at C1: Brad, Grace, Avi and Noel </td></tr>
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<b>August 8th – Rest day at base camp</b><br />
Chatted with Andy and Clare from another team. Continues to sort out tents and group gear. Played iPad monopoly. Avi and Noel almost completely recovered from some lingering ailments.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZ9ttrwYr7i_ovgRF3dXwXPAWPUqrrhG7XD1G1E68NeJtAF02Q6EAi4IMNUyhl2-ScLiDBA4eC-rr_On8IIo6cUfYvYpjV73zUlndb5zjQGT1s6ldh_T8nt74yMQzjMKYNMNrMSXZ63Tg/s1600/shogolungfromc1spantik.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZ9ttrwYr7i_ovgRF3dXwXPAWPUqrrhG7XD1G1E68NeJtAF02Q6EAi4IMNUyhl2-ScLiDBA4eC-rr_On8IIo6cUfYvYpjV73zUlndb5zjQGT1s6ldh_T8nt74yMQzjMKYNMNrMSXZ63Tg/s400/shogolungfromc1spantik.JPG" width="500" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking down to the Shogolung Glacier from C1. Note the base camp tents at the lower left of the image - nice spot! © brad jackson</td></tr>
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<b>August 9th – Carry to Camp 1</b><br />
Antoine form the French team was going up to camp 1 today to retrieve his tents, so we decided to tag along and take up some tents and gear. Andy, an English geologist from a previous FTA expedition also decided to tag along. Breakfast was at 8am and we decided to depart at 10am.<br />
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The climb to Camp 1 is a meandering scramble up an interesting rock face along several ridgelines. It was fun without being too exposed and was diverse in terrain preventing any kind of monotony. We really lucked out with the weather and had high cloud that prevented the day from getting too warm but also meant that I just wore a Patagonia sun shirt for the day. Grace and Andy set the lead with 1:45 minutes to Camp 1 and Avi and I followed at 2:15 minutes. Grace and I managed to get up 4 tents, 2 stoves, a rope and some food to Camp 1 and we set Avi and Noel the task of setting up 2 tents for a bit of practice if they needed to set up tents themselves later.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6SOHWM7Nf3OZc-FdzctX2af5Cso-dPE1z-VcGCXXw26D03UxK98pGbvS0Brc49SizaJrlqDKDSXXNdsTVLSMVDrSowMbtEllo34DuG6B4hkGZT_pKqFvTvqNfvV_Hn-BTlJczVOKIpb4/s1600/shogolungglacierspantik.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6SOHWM7Nf3OZc-FdzctX2af5Cso-dPE1z-VcGCXXw26D03UxK98pGbvS0Brc49SizaJrlqDKDSXXNdsTVLSMVDrSowMbtEllo34DuG6B4hkGZT_pKqFvTvqNfvV_Hn-BTlJczVOKIpb4/s400/shogolungglacierspantik.JPG" width="500" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Shogolung Glacier from C1 © Brad Jackson</td></tr>
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It really was a wonderful day climbing in perfect weather conditions. At Camp 1, we had great views of most of the Spantik ridgeline and could see in the distance several members of the Dutch team making their way to Camp 3. The Shogolung glacier meandered beneath us and 22-degree rainbow halos ringed the sun.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUaLsgTn2qYoR6Qzb-7UY6ExiiPWLC7NpdH_Ke03GvV3LFcd2AnmLGpKESGzO8EYDseHZbsZcEaCiKVdc9zX-Sjon0NiAn_PEs5L_ZWPCZ_tqLnYtYy5cp_tGTcigVZABysEoJ7qqSRS8/s1600/spantikridgefromc1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUaLsgTn2qYoR6Qzb-7UY6ExiiPWLC7NpdH_Ke03GvV3LFcd2AnmLGpKESGzO8EYDseHZbsZcEaCiKVdc9zX-Sjon0NiAn_PEs5L_ZWPCZ_tqLnYtYy5cp_tGTcigVZABysEoJ7qqSRS8/s640/spantikridgefromc1.JPG" width="500" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Spantik's 8km ridge from C1 © brad jackson</td></tr>
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After 2 hours of setting up tents and general chatting, we made our way down. We helped Antoine carry some of their group gear down. The descent was fun and fast. Steep enough to get a good pace but not steep enough to risk serious injury. I luxuriated in for once having a light pack as I was only carrying a tent and sped down the second half of the mountain after having traversed the ridges.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkarb2kwnya37lcK0I0qmYKjToIxC771M76mF0vZaI-7xxRV84_SgqUdsmrJ1eUeqhRYqGVzieRLQXOrURbgWUnDDp9rzQCMbGBn0K89Dgy1aSZ7-_QmhbYb4vrEtItZblVGJvhLFUVbo/s1600/avigraceandyc1spantik.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkarb2kwnya37lcK0I0qmYKjToIxC771M76mF0vZaI-7xxRV84_SgqUdsmrJ1eUeqhRYqGVzieRLQXOrURbgWUnDDp9rzQCMbGBn0K89Dgy1aSZ7-_QmhbYb4vrEtItZblVGJvhLFUVbo/s400/avigraceandyc1spantik.JPG" width="500" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Avi, Grace and Noel descending from C1 © brad jackson</td></tr>
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<br />
Arriving back at base camp, we were greeted with grape tang and then we bundled ourselves into the dining tent for soup, samosas and another round of delicious Pakistani mangoes. A quick nana nap in the afternoon and then dinner at 8pm. Overall, a superb day.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVWZI9SLmgPJLMR8MMX1v714-FNFjkkNBDn-CHCydkEFYQHMvDpud_rrFxi1-3Hwftu97yxuEvXt0l1pk8Ew7gIbguEQCVaUHEyQUNg_U27X9sF5tN0-aFHy_QsthL3WBCpFcXLwjCvgo/s1600/noelc1spantik.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVWZI9SLmgPJLMR8MMX1v714-FNFjkkNBDn-CHCydkEFYQHMvDpud_rrFxi1-3Hwftu97yxuEvXt0l1pk8Ew7gIbguEQCVaUHEyQUNg_U27X9sF5tN0-aFHy_QsthL3WBCpFcXLwjCvgo/s400/noelc1spantik.JPG" width="500" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Noel enjoying a rest at C1 © brad jackson</td></tr>
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<br />Field Touring Alpinehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06854859430334159650noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-996044814107006337.post-85606009156046539572012-08-09T11:04:00.002-04:002012-08-09T11:04:33.834-04:00FTA Spantik 2012 Under Way!<b>FTA Spantik 2012</b><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Noel nearing Spantik base camp © Brad Jackson</td></tr>
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With our Broad Peak expedition concluded after a great effort we turn our efforts to 7027 Spantik under the leadership of
Brad Jackson. Brad is joined by Grace from our Broad Peak team, Noel who is an alum from Ama Dablam and a new member Avi. All in all looks to be a nice group and we hope they have a good spell of weather in the weeks ahead!<br />
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<div class="entry-content">
Brad and his group are at base camp and beginning the expedition in earnest today with technical skills review and more. Over the days ahead they will push some gear onto the hill and begin the acclimatization process.<br />
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Brad has sent in the following update to catch you all up on the expedition and we will have updates every 2-3 days through to the end of the month.<br />
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<b>Aug 3 - Team unites </b><br />
Avi and Noel arrived in Skardu today by catching one of the
supposed mythical flights from Islamabad. Grace and I seethed with
jealousy. After settling in, we walked the mean streets of Skardu,
checking out some rental gear we need for Spantik and I making my
obligatory daily ice cream stop at a store named ‘Alaska’. Also as a
pleasant surprise, we nervously put our ATM cards in a machine that
looked like it may dispense cash and viola, it actually worked and
Pakistani rupees flowed forth.<br />
Tomorrow we shall sort out the rest of the gear and prepare for our departure to Arandu on the 4th August.<br />
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<b>August 4th – Skardu to Arando</b><br />
We were promised a leisurely 6 hour drive to Arando but circumstances conspired to the extent that although we left at 8am , I didn’t reach camp site to 8pm that evening.<br />
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The day started innocently enough. Our favorite jeep ‘ Oh my Cod’ arrived on time and we piled in with, Grace and Avi squashed in the front and Fida (our escort for the trip) Noel and myself in the back. We passed the police checkpoint on the outskirts of Skardu without incident and made our merry way to Shigar. This time we stopped off at Shigar Fort and took a brief tour of the 460 year old
building and surroundings. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Noel, Avi and Grace in the Fort’s doorway © brad jackson</td></tr>
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The journey continued and we started to cross the numerous wooden cantilever bridges that connect the villages of Baltistan. After several hours we came across what seemed like a migrating sand dune crossing the road and both our jeeps promptly became bogged.<br />
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Much to-ing and fro-ing ensued as the jeeps managed to reverse and took big run ups to get momentum across the sand. At one stage, I thought we would have to deflate the tyres to get additional grip but after about the 5th attempt, our fearless driver got us across. Prior crossing, Avi had got out of the jeep, to take a video of the attempt. To our complete hysterics, he started chasing after the jeep after we crossed the sandy area thinking we were leaving him behind.<br />
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At the next village, we had a bit of incident as some very exuberant potential porters wished to clamber on our jeep and sat upon our duffle bags. I was requested by Deedar to have a bit of a word to these guys, to get them of the jeep. I walked up to the crowd of porters and shouted at the top of my voice ‘Get Down Now’ and to my and everyone’s surprise they complied and got off the jeep.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinvvQUqPTp77XkW3RiityKLER5GEaSy-iexmmmN_R-1UIsNvthcP4k7aug6C6iuj79KmzsFp3WjFvV45Ljgg4sH8xPVEMah_cTMHs_d_c9cVnbdTbWGG8wWllp4qiDXSa2_440g2943gk/s1600/bradandnoelcricket.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinvvQUqPTp77XkW3RiityKLER5GEaSy-iexmmmN_R-1UIsNvthcP4k7aug6C6iuj79KmzsFp3WjFvV45Ljgg4sH8xPVEMah_cTMHs_d_c9cVnbdTbWGG8wWllp4qiDXSa2_440g2943gk/s400/bradandnoelcricket.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Brad and Noel in an impromptu cricket match </td></tr>
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The road become more treacherous and we were reminded of the later part of the journey to Askole. At one village, we had to temporarily repair the bridge with logs and rocks to cross but at the village of Doko the bridge had warped to be impassable. Our jeeps were stranded on one side of the bridge and we had to manually ferry our gear across the bridge and wait for other transportation on the other side. Our delay in journey was the Doko children cricket team’s gain. As we waited for a jeep, on hearing Noel’s and my nationality, a home made bat and ball was produced and we played some cricket against the locals. Even Grace had a go, doing her best for Canada and we forgave her for referring to bowling as pitching.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Grace showing Canada's best chance for gold in 2016 ;-)</td></tr>
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After cricket we were invited to what I believe was the village chief’s house and sat in a room and was served tea and biscuits. The wait for transport dragged on and we all attempted to snooze in the room. This though was difficult, as it seemed every villager under 15 opened the door into the room to have a peek and then slammed it shut. This happened easily over 100 times.<br />
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After several hours, a lone jeep appeared, and it soon became apparent that we could not all fit in the jeep without causing severe some DVT’s. I volunteered to stay behind, and Grace, Noel, Avi, Deedar and Fida went forth to Arando. I returned to the Village Head’s room. In the absence of anything better to do, I fired up my MacBook Air and watched “John Carter’. Me and half the village of course. By 6:30pm, the lone jeep returned. Pretty good timing really as I started to watch an episode of ‘Archer’ and I was having an internal ethical quandary wondering if I should allow these village kids to watch. Just watch any episode of ‘Archer’ and you will understand what I mean.<br />
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I bundled myself into the jeep and we made our way to Arando. Some nervous moments as night fell and I wondered why the driver insisted on not using headlights. Perhaps the cliffs and overhangs looked less menacing in the absence of light. Then at what seemed to be like some pre-determined time, the headlights come on along with some ear–splitting screeching Pakistani music and I arrived at camp at 8pm, lucky not to be in a homicidal rage.<br />
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Noel, Avi and Grace had just started dinner and I gratefully returned to my team. Went to bed early, knowing the next day, we would have all the porters arrive to take our gear on the 3 day trek to Spantik base camp.<br />
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<b>August 5th and 6th – Arando to Munpakora to Balocho (by Grace MacDonald).</b><br />
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After a night of rain we got a very early wake up from the dozens of porters who amassed directly outside our tents to begin discussions about the loads they were to begin carrying that day. I had been hoping for a bit more sleep and contemplated sticking my head out of the tent and telling them to SHUT UP but I decided since we would be spending the next few days with this crew it was best to just get up and start getting things ready.<br />
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Porters are always up early and eager to get going to you’re lucky to even get your self out of the tent before they start dismantling it. After a quick breakfast and camp tear down me, Avi and Noel started off on the trail through Arando to Munpakora while Brad stayed behind to deal with weighing the porter loads. We took a quick break in Arando waiting for porters to make sure we took the right trail. The friendly local villagers and kids came out to surround us and run away every time we tried to snap a photo but we’d developed some stealth photo techniques and tricked them into the odd photo.<br />
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It was a great day for walking, sunny with some nice cloud cover and the trail was fairly gentle. We eventually came to a small treed area where the portersstopped for a lunch break. We sat and chatted with them for a bit and metanother couple that was heading to Spantik. Always eager to keep moving, meand Avi headed out for the final push to our home for a night – a nice open fieldcalled Munpakora with a good water supply and flat camping spots. Our tents arrived at the same time so we set them up, this time far from where the porters would be in the morning, Brad and Noel came in about an hour later and after a simple lunch we all rested for the afternoon. Noel was suffering from a bit of a stomach bug and by the evening Brad seemed to have caught the same bug.<br />
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We decided to segregate them in one tent for the night so I moved in with Avi and we prayed we both wouldn’t wake up with the same bug in the morning. It rained again during the night so it was another wet camp teardown but the good news is Noel seemed to be on the mend and me and Avi were still healthy. Brad was slightly improved but still on the mend. So another quick breakfast and we headed out to our next stop – Balocho.<br />
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We were told this would take 5 to 7 hours and this was one of the more challenging days with lots of up and down trails. Avi took it a bit slower today as he wasn’t acclimatized and we didn’t want him ruining himself running ahead with me. There was less sun this day and more cloud and the plan was to stop for lunch along the way but when I reached the lunch spot it got chilly and despite my hunger I decided to inhale a sport gel and carry on with the porters. Avi ended up doing the same a short way behind me but the rest of the team got the rain during their lunch stop. Luckily I was only 10 minutes out of Balocho and while we had no tents, the porters took me in to one of their shelters and plied me with Balti tea and chapatis – and I was very happy to accept food water and shelter as we waited for the rain to pass. As our tents arrived I tried to find spots away from the porter huts and got them set up.<br />
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Avi arrived midway during that process, sat on a rock, watched me and inhaled a box of cookies. He did save one cookie for me! In fairness I was so hungry I would have been reluctant to share a box of cookies too. We laughed as he shared his story of somehow getting lost on the trail and having porter laugh at him as he tried to get back on the trail (eventually one of them went to help, but they tend to like to get in a laugh first). I also had a bit of help from a porter just outside camp when a took a step just a bit too long for my leg and found my self rolling and sliding down a steep slope towards the glacier. The porter who was in front of me quickly ran back (fast despite being fully loaded) and pulled me back up. These easy approach days never seem to be without the odd challenging moments. Brad and Noel strolled in a bit later and Noel seemed to be almost fully recovered but Brad was still dealing with the evil stomach bug so we continued with the tent quarantine for one more night. Me and Avi thought we had gotten off lucky.<br />
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Speaking of lucky - after the rain the sun came out and we really got to appreciate our beautiful surroundings. Across the glacier we would cross tomorrow we could see Laila Peak (Haramosh Valley), Malbuting and, our goal, Spantik. There was a beautiful sunset that night and a couple of us spent that time sipping coffee and watching the sun go down behind the mountains.<br />
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After a nice dinner with a great view, we settled in for another night of sleep, our last before heading over to base camp.<br />
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<b>August 7th – Balacho to Spantik Base Camp</b><br />
I woke up feeling better. Finally. I really had been offended at myself for getting sick in the first place. Not impressed. Grace had asked around told us it was a 3 hour journey to base camp and to this day cannot understand why we believed it would be a 3 hour journey to base camp.<br />
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Most of the trek was over glacier and admittedly the first 4 hours was benign glacial terrain. The last 2 hours, the glacier became heavily crevassed and the route became much more convoluted. Spantik base camp is perched on a ridge descending from the mountain and can be seen several hours before arrival and thus rally seems ot extend the time it takes to reach there. Unfortunately Avi, was not feeling very well on this leg of the trip, having developing symptoms of the stomach bug that had afflicted Noel and I the previous days. Personally, I find one of the uplifting aspects of travelling in the remote regions of the world, is seeing certain people’s resolve and dignity under difficult circumstances. Avi showed this with his tenacity in making base camp, as had Noel in making camp 2 days prior.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Avi working his way along the glacier to base camp </td></tr>
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We made base camp in around 6 hours and Deedar and crew immediately went to task to make our new home. 2 porters from another team immediately set upon me asking for money and material for the fixed rope and in hindsight I should have waited before agreeing on terms.<br />
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We are sharing base camp with French, Basque, Dutch and New Zealand teams but at this point, it is just the Dutch and ourselves climbing as the other teams have finished their attempts on the mountain.</div>Field Touring Alpinehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06854859430334159650noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-996044814107006337.post-50704986276027632332012-07-24T08:55:00.000-04:002012-07-24T08:55:17.876-04:00FTA Broad Peak 2012 - Summit Bid recapOur team has had a few days to recover from the tremendous effort of putting on a summit bid in demanding conditions on an 8000m peak. The altitude, cold and snow fall combined with wind to make it a rather Scottish "full-on" attempt and through great work as a team and good decision making they have returned safe and sound to base camp.<br />
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It is now clear that the conditions will not make it possible for a second bid in the near future so the Broad Peak team will begin to head back to Skardu by way of Gondogro La and Hushe while Matt and Al will recalibrate for an attempt on K2 in the next two weeks. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">FTA Broad Peak 2012 team in BC © brad jackson </td></tr>
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<b>Spantik up Next</b><br />
After reaching Skardu Brad will then take over the leadership of our Spantik trip to begin on August 1 and at least one of our Broad Peak members will join him. This will be our 5th trip to Spantik in the last 7 years and we'll hope that Brad and his team are able to repeat the great success which we had last year on Spantik!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">High Camp on Spantik © Chris Szymiec</td></tr>
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<b>Autumn Nepal/India and Winter Ecuador & Argentina line-up</b><br />
Ben will be take a few weeks or well earned rest and then head off to lead a trip to Kilimanjaro. Ben will be be leading trips to Aconcagua starting in December and ending in February while Chris & Samira Szymiec will be leading our confirmed autumn lineup of Khumbu Peaks & Passes, Ama Dablam & Island Peak climbs and Everest BC treks. As well we have a confirmed trip with spaces to Stok Kangri and Kang Yatse for September.<br />
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In the months ahead we have Cotopaxi, Tharpu Chuli and much more ahead so email us at "info@fieldtouring.com" for more info or check out the trips at the main site <a href="http://www.fieldtouringalpine.com/">www.fieldtouringalpine.com</a><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjjMAczOA2chu2fBF1o3YrjNFMkokaqYtr18rAGrFApxaxMtJHV5GK8nayCy8vNOlvxaTi_mu1FGrf5BR6K4_2qcG7AzmGqSyG7hCu7PR1dO-DYYA69dFPbqxhzid2-2FaozFrBjabg_U/s1600/ad07_bc_puja-715315.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjjMAczOA2chu2fBF1o3YrjNFMkokaqYtr18rAGrFApxaxMtJHV5GK8nayCy8vNOlvxaTi_mu1FGrf5BR6K4_2qcG7AzmGqSyG7hCu7PR1dO-DYYA69dFPbqxhzid2-2FaozFrBjabg_U/s400/ad07_bc_puja-715315.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ama Dablam base camp © stu remensnyder</td></tr>
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<b>2013 Pakistan: Broad Peak, Gasherbrums, K2, Spantik, Snow Lake trek and K2 BC trek</b><br />
We are already taking applications for next summer and hop you can join us for our 11th straight season on the 8000m peaks of the Karakoram and 10th anniversary of our first 8000m summit!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy_d89ewbjQ8FDfY4JNo5M20kZYdnOmIE6spoWMK5W-ncFMBet9GF7DQSZ9VPHsff-67CICvwO-CubYvnl-zwq_hJ1V0sNGb-AKGBtMb6_egiaskjcmt0raCMYMmI7ucmh1YiAbTO5NWs/s1600/bp03sumridgejumar1b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy_d89ewbjQ8FDfY4JNo5M20kZYdnOmIE6spoWMK5W-ncFMBet9GF7DQSZ9VPHsff-67CICvwO-CubYvnl-zwq_hJ1V0sNGb-AKGBtMb6_egiaskjcmt0raCMYMmI7ucmh1YiAbTO5NWs/s640/bp03sumridgejumar1b.jpg" width="424" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Broad Peak summit ridge © stu remensnyder</td></tr>
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<b>Brad's Journal - Summit bid part 2 </b><br />
Once again Brad has all the details of the events on and off the mountain and hope you enjoy catching up!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgc1Jit8hpm1YfAsM7A1wnN2VC0aUjoMbzBz9xdRi-MBpx6WUeuqOfTejJ-uIHHO6qLWhwugw2t53eZ-jkGnan4tE33G6zgbIvsikSQQu22Jsn8KdQ22rqRBDszAqg4I-nQcxc5sep053Y/s1600/bradC3.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="281" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgc1Jit8hpm1YfAsM7A1wnN2VC0aUjoMbzBz9xdRi-MBpx6WUeuqOfTejJ-uIHHO6qLWhwugw2t53eZ-jkGnan4tE33G6zgbIvsikSQQu22Jsn8KdQ22rqRBDszAqg4I-nQcxc5sep053Y/s400/bradC3.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Brad at C3 on Broad Peak</td></tr>
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<b>July 20th – Part 1 - Ernestas’s story</b><br />
Ernestas from Lithuania was camped by himself at 7,300 m (Camp 3.5) on the morning of the 20th when avalanche struck at 4:50 am. Ernestas had woken up 10 minutes prior to the avalanche and started preparing his gear. The avalanche thrust Ernestas, still in his sleeping bag and inside this tent 150 m vertical down the hill. As the avalanche pushed him down hill, the tent opened and all his gear fell out and snow filled his tent. By extremely good fortune, the snow filling the tent actually helped stop his slide down the hill and Ernestas stopped 5m before a 20m serac. A further 5 m slide would have undoubtedly led to the death of Ernestas.<br />
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Once stopped, miraculously with no poles of his tent broken, visibility was poor with snow and fog. Ernestas got out of the sleeping bag and started checking for all his gear. He only found one boot, 10 m above the final position of his tent plus some additional gear. Ernestas’s right la Sportiva Olympus Mons boot was missing and his portable radio was completely flat.<br />
<br />
Ernestas looked for his boot for 5 hours but to no avail. The decision had to made to descend as his right foot was freezing up. His trekking pole and ice axe, he left behind and he started to descend. The descent was made with one lboot and crampon on his left foot and just the inner boot on his right. At around 10:30 Ernestas met the Iranians at camp 3 and they gave him 2 cups of tea but they had no radio. The Iranians wanted to ascend the mountain the next day so stayed in the tent.<br />
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The descent continued, now with some additional gear that he had left at camp 3, a light axe, ski pole and incredibly a load of rubbish. On the way to camp 2, Ernestas met porters from the Chinese team. These guys had a radio and Ernestas was finally able to contact his camp. He asked for an extra boot<br />
and crampon. They asked how the condition of his right foot was and incredibly, his toes had not yet frozen. Descent continued to camp 2 and unfortunately no one was at camp 2 (He must have just missed the departure of our group) Ernestas then encountered the Chinese team. They offered<br />
Ernestas to stay with them at Camp 2 but he wanted to continue the descent. At camp 1, Ernestas met Arnie from our team and Ernestas offered to descend with Arnie but at that time Arnie wished to stay at camp 1 to melt water.<br />
<br />
At 5,300 m Ernestas met Jordie, a Catalan with ATP who had carried up an extra La Sportiva boot up the mountain after being contacted by the Chinese radio. The boot was size 47 as opposed to Ernestas’s size 44 but beggars couldn’t be choosers. Jordie also gave Ernestas tea and an Energy gel. At that time, Farhat, a porter with the Catalan team, carried Ernestas’s backpack the rest of the way downhill.<br />
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At 6pm, Ernestas finally made base camp, an epic journey 90% of the way down the mountain with one boot and no frostbite. An incredibly lucky escape. Ernestas is of course now preparing to move camps and attempt K2.<br />
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<b>July 20th – Part 2: FTA team descends</b><br />
Oblivious to what Ernestas was undergoing, we woke up at camp 3, our aspirations to summit completely quashed by the continued snowfall. We prepared to strip the mountain and descend. To save room, Ben and I wore our down-suits so we had additional room to store tents and gear in our<br />
Cilogear backpacks.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigsuYkTne0YWiHb0uOnkyKrUv6TwiMrCSj6dTg1mokpo4dbM1i_z7JbFN_lyPZ00O7LZ1aZU_hKOQksc24Ju0-F0YBdmAv8OBF3ilElxTxrhnDYuMX1HGY-gamYwB9JJdkhL4dMBbRPQw/s1600/graceRobbo.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="287" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigsuYkTne0YWiHb0uOnkyKrUv6TwiMrCSj6dTg1mokpo4dbM1i_z7JbFN_lyPZ00O7LZ1aZU_hKOQksc24Ju0-F0YBdmAv8OBF3ilElxTxrhnDYuMX1HGY-gamYwB9JJdkhL4dMBbRPQw/s400/graceRobbo.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Grace and Robbo at C1 © brad jackson</td></tr>
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Al, Sayed and Aziz stripped their camp and made their way down. The rest of us waited till the sun had partially poked its way through the clouds and snow and stripped down the 3 x 3 person tents. Being in down suits, meant that my hands were slightly less susceptible to the cold and was able to help dismantle the tents in 5-minute intervals till I had to stop and rewarm my hands through vigorous shaking and rubbing. Louis was ready first and headed down the hill and Darren and Grace helped dismantle the second of the 3 person tents. Arnie helped Taqui and Mahadi with the TNF VE-25.<br />
<br />
I think it was around 9pm when we finally began our descent. The snow had settled in and visibility was very poor. I believe Al had to sit on the slope at various intervals till he could see the waypoint at the bottom of camp 3 and the rest of us were lucky that we had 50 m visibility to see the path of descent.<br />
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Our beards, moustaches and goggles iced over as the snow stuck to our clothes and packs. The continued snowfall also meant that we were often post holing. This meant our bodies would stop in the snow as we fall to our knees and thighs but the inertia of our packs kept going forward.<br />
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About an hour from camp 3 on the descent, I rapped of a steep snow slope and due to the heavy snowfall, ‘slurpeed’ side on into a crevasse. I managed to get myself in an incredibly awkward position as the tail end of the rope clipped through a wire gate biner hanging on the gear loop on my harness. I ended up lying sideways with my legs in the crevasse but my backpack pulling me down the other side. It took me over a half an hour to extract myself from the crevasse using my jumar, shoveling and the limit of my abdominal muscles. I could see Ben and Taqui occasionally through the snow and mist but they couldn’t really help. Ben later told me that he told Taqui that it looked like FTA lost an assistant and as such there would be more food available at base camp later that afternoon.<br />
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Down the other side of the slope, the heavy snowfall continued and I pausedto rest to get a ‘Bumper Bar’ and water into me. The snow then kind of consolidated and I caught up to Arnie just above Camp 2. Robbo and Grace were at camp 2 and very gratefully they packed up a tent and additional gear to take down the hill. Ben and I used every available strap on our Cilogear packs to strap as much as possible to our packs. Thank god, the weather remained overcast at this stage as we were obviously still in down suits and would have died if the sun came out.<br />
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The descent to camp 1 was not too draining and we had a further rest stop at Camp 1. On the way we saw the Chinese team and I asked why they were ascending when there had been so much snow. They were committed, so wished them luck and safe passage. Ben, Darren, Grace and I had a collective pause at camp 1 and psyched ourselves for the last descent from Camp 1 to Base camp. Due to the incredible danger of rock fall, we left in stages. Robbo first, Grace second, me in third and Ben bringing up the rear. Arnie was at a different pace to the rest of us and we accepted that he would be coming several hours later.<br />
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With big packs and massive crampon balling, arm rapping was less of an option and we all turned around more to rappel. I caught up with Grace at a rock band after some momentary confusion as to why she had stopped. A piton had fallen out and Grace was rightfully concerned about rapping from<br />
the remaining anchor. I made a temporary ice axe belay and watched in alarm as the fixed rope sawed back and forth across sharp rock as she descended.<br />
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Ben then caught up with me and grabbed the hammer of my pack and hammered in the loose piton. Despite my previous alarm, all I wanted to do was get down the mountain and I rapped down as fast as possible. The rest of the way to crampon point, was a bit of a daze as the weight of my pack pressed further into my shoulders and my legs became heavier and heavier.<br />
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At crampon point, the Catalan team and porters were waiting and this was the first I heard of Ernestas’s epic journey from Camp 3.5. I waited for Ben to drop down and we dumped the group gear (tents etc) into waiting duffle bags. The crossing of the glacier was the last straw and we easily decided that the FTA porters could come across in a couple of days to pick up the tents. We had<br />
dome enough.<br />
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The glacier crossing was long and arduous. Ben and I had both run out of water at this stage and had no hesitation in filling up our water bottles from the glacier streams sans any filtration. Once again, I was soo thankful that the weather was overcast, so while I was very hot in my down suit, I wasn’t dying.<br />
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I guess I got to base camp around 5pm, a very long and epic day. I immediately stripped out of my down suit, changed into lighter gear and made my way into the dining tent. I immediately sucked down 10 cups of Tang and water followed by soup. I was very glad to be ‘home’.<br />
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We saw Ernestas at 6pm and he informed us that Arnie was staying at camp 1. At 9pm, listening to music, I heard Arnie come into camp. Everyone was back at base camp and now all that lay ahead of us was resting, packing and preparing for the trek back to Skardu.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipWfi9xCdFMAQTwoDQYSLoaxii_GqOPVGnv-4TEMQx10pryURnGBPOIV4fCcf-sSMXCMe9OW4iEjxOHxXaozFmJiMKUX9oyt1JVoIZh92Mbgs8qQeMwLdX7l_gbkpECef0_LNpKhgvxIk/s1600/photo+1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="267" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipWfi9xCdFMAQTwoDQYSLoaxii_GqOPVGnv-4TEMQx10pryURnGBPOIV4fCcf-sSMXCMe9OW4iEjxOHxXaozFmJiMKUX9oyt1JVoIZh92Mbgs8qQeMwLdX7l_gbkpECef0_LNpKhgvxIk/s400/photo+1.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">FTA team displaying post high altitude summit bid syndrome symptoms</td></tr>
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<br />Field Touring Alpinehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06854859430334159650noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-996044814107006337.post-15848121588061386682012-07-22T00:06:00.000-04:002012-07-22T00:06:02.160-04:00FTA Broad Peak 2012 - First Summit Bid Over Our team is back in base camp after a good effort to make for the summit of Broad Peak. They did everything they could over the last 5 weeks to be in position for a possible summit bid and it was simply not to be. Numerous team have tried for the summit over the last few weeks and none have succeeded in reaching even the col at 7850 this year.<br />
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Ben, Brad and crew moved up to be in position for the potential window we saw for the 19-21 of July which represented the main teams last realistic chance and they were met with too much snowfall to continue. They held on a day in C3 with hopes the weather might turn and were met with more snow which cemented the decision to descend.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMftfHb99CZ8En8id3Gh3FaNcyj_lNCGxhZSVfB2zr07vWWNzQGr88DfEjir_0gsP23W6rdQr03Ik9NLRM6_vwcX4nof_gU8WvE9izmMavZcQB55UCoHpPtukFhV6gAJDV3Ar9YTThQEc/s1600/arnieC2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="230" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMftfHb99CZ8En8id3Gh3FaNcyj_lNCGxhZSVfB2zr07vWWNzQGr88DfEjir_0gsP23W6rdQr03Ik9NLRM6_vwcX4nof_gU8WvE9izmMavZcQB55UCoHpPtukFhV6gAJDV3Ar9YTThQEc/s400/arnieC2.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Arni climbing above C2 on the summit push</td></tr>
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Matt and Al still have K2 ahead of them and a few others may yet decide to try for Broad Peak again in the next few days bit for the majority of the crew they will have to content themselves with having reached to just over 7000m on the 12th highest peak on the planet and returned safely.<br />
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Below you can read Brad Jackson's daily journal for the 17th - 19th with the 20th & 21st tom come tomorrow.<br />
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<b>July 17th - Summit Push</b><br />
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The summit push is on. Matt, Grace and Arnie, got up in the first wave for a 2am breakfast. Ben, Louis, Hamza and myself sleep in a bit and hit the dining tent at 4am. A superb morning with lingering cloud on K2 signifying little wind in the area, we crossed the glacier for hopefully the last time. As usual, crossing the glacier sleepy-eyed, I was walking with two-left feet and I saw Ben, Tacqui and Mahadi trot merrily off in the distance. Unfortunately no-one fell into the river, so once again I was denied amusement at the critical bamboo pole crossing.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigsuYkTne0YWiHb0uOnkyKrUv6TwiMrCSj6dTg1mokpo4dbM1i_z7JbFN_lyPZ00O7LZ1aZU_hKOQksc24Ju0-F0YBdmAv8OBF3ilElxTxrhnDYuMX1HGY-gamYwB9JJdkhL4dMBbRPQw/s1600/graceRobbo.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="287" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigsuYkTne0YWiHb0uOnkyKrUv6TwiMrCSj6dTg1mokpo4dbM1i_z7JbFN_lyPZ00O7LZ1aZU_hKOQksc24Ju0-F0YBdmAv8OBF3ilElxTxrhnDYuMX1HGY-gamYwB9JJdkhL4dMBbRPQw/s400/graceRobbo.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Grace and Robbo at BC © brad jackson</td></tr>
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Hamza and Louis climbed steadily to camp 1 and Ben and I hung back and took our time climbing to conserve energy for the marathon task ahead. The waterfall rock band had almost doubled in length upon our arrival as the snow had melted back and the rock climb crux became more difficult and sustained. After the fourth attempt though, this was not as difficult as the first attempts. Our packs were not too heavy, we were carrying our down suits and additional gear for the summit push including goggles and high altitude mittens. For some reason I had Sarah Blasko’s ‘ Amazing things’ on repeat in my head on the way up to Camp 1. I’ve had worst songs stuck in my head.<br />
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After 4 hours, we snuck into camp 1. The weather was fickle and I couldn’t quite anticipate which clothes to wear to Camp 2. I stripped of a layer but regretted my decision as it clouded over and a breeze took hold. The Patagonia r1 Hoody went back on at a small horizontal snow patch next to a rock gendarme about half an hour climb from camp 1.<br />
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Acclimatized and not carrying too heavier a load, Ben and I chatted merrily. We discussed bold ideas of an Indian-Pakistani peace initiative and other ideas to solve the world’s problems. I popped into Camp 2 around 2pm and had a brief chat to Grace at the lower tent before making my way to our tent at the upper end of Camp 2.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEid8zGiWdhg-Ys2AfLNRjTscHN5HlDmbhsJqYKU5AhDzOL32rvMjNVudqfvHJUbiMlgz89u4c90ysNEuo5T2OXy-gf2fERDTQgg3BOYrrPsMktEIBSKX_AgkXJ-nMWJ8GncyerQ17bvDaA/s1600/climbingToC2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="256" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEid8zGiWdhg-Ys2AfLNRjTscHN5HlDmbhsJqYKU5AhDzOL32rvMjNVudqfvHJUbiMlgz89u4c90ysNEuo5T2OXy-gf2fERDTQgg3BOYrrPsMktEIBSKX_AgkXJ-nMWJ8GncyerQ17bvDaA/s400/climbingToC2.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Climbing to C2 © brad jackson</td></tr>
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Much to Ben’s disgust, we obviously had ‘squatters’ in our tent since our last stay. We have prime suspects but cant don’t have any direct evidence to name and shame. They had drunk all my coffee, left rubbish in the tent as well as a creepy slime (I shudder to think what it was) in the vestibule. Rant over, we settled in for the afternoon and made a concerted effort to eat and drink as much as possible for the days ahead.<br />
<br />
Trusty ramen noodles were promptly prepared as our mid afternoon snack and Freeze dried ‘Mountain Chili’ for was had for dinner. After checking with Stu and his weather report, I hollered to the rest of the team, that we would head to camp 3 at 8am the next morning. We didn’t want to leave too early to avoid having to start the day too cold and then have to change clothes for the midday sun.<br />
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<b>July 18th - Camp 2 to Camp 3</b><br />
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I had an absolutely wonderful sleep at Camp 2. Clichéd snug as a bug in a rug. Packs were heavier this morning as we packed our down suits (or 2 pieces for Louis and Grace) in addition to our sleeping gear, stoves, fuel and food for 4 days up the hill. A steep rise to the gendarmes had the lungs straining and the weather ominously went from clear skies to overcast. Our wind adversary greeted us again shortly after departure and at the halfway point to camp 3, I switched to balaclava, goggles and OR Alti gloves to close of all avenues of heat loss to wind chill.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi88Uo6VNkUBCXf-NKoPpCL4YHq5GrJirFxf1Bo4uSKT84mhKLQ9cXCUtE1twSjODzUmMeloF0tS2Xj3jxiBlUGmeIYj6PKpbR8Uz1XmC0TrG0jwCAr1VejIeyZRMATUTovJzP0Hkr1ysg/s1600/louisToC3.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="238" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi88Uo6VNkUBCXf-NKoPpCL4YHq5GrJirFxf1Bo4uSKT84mhKLQ9cXCUtE1twSjODzUmMeloF0tS2Xj3jxiBlUGmeIYj6PKpbR8Uz1XmC0TrG0jwCAr1VejIeyZRMATUTovJzP0Hkr1ysg/s400/louisToC3.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Climbing to C3 © brad jackson</td></tr>
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<br />
I was wildly optimistic at our intended arrival time at camp 3, hoping to arrive before 2pm but the biting wind; heavy packs and thin air had me arriving around 3pm. I was really pleased to see Robbo shrug of his earlier difficulties in climbing and make a strong climb to 3, easily cutting half an hour of my time. Grace too, arrived strongly ahead of me and Hamza followed closely in my footsteps.<br />
<br />
Al likes to leave camp early in the mornings and set off to Camp 3 in his down suit. It was a good choice as he escaped any midday heat and arrived at camp ahead of all us with the HAP’s of Tacqui, Mahadi Sayed and Aziz. An extremely welcome sight on arrival at camp 3 was to see 4 tents setup. No lung breaking preparing of tent platforms and threading tent poles this time around.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgc1Jit8hpm1YfAsM7A1wnN2VC0aUjoMbzBz9xdRi-MBpx6WUeuqOfTejJ-uIHHO6qLWhwugw2t53eZ-jkGnan4tE33G6zgbIvsikSQQu22Jsn8KdQ22rqRBDszAqg4I-nQcxc5sep053Y/s1600/bradC3.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="281" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgc1Jit8hpm1YfAsM7A1wnN2VC0aUjoMbzBz9xdRi-MBpx6WUeuqOfTejJ-uIHHO6qLWhwugw2t53eZ-jkGnan4tE33G6zgbIvsikSQQu22Jsn8KdQ22rqRBDszAqg4I-nQcxc5sep053Y/s400/bradC3.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Brad at C3 © brad jackson</td></tr>
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On arrival at Camp 3 (~7,000m), it was snowing combined with a strong gusty wind. Our plan to set up my Nemo Tenshi as a fifth tent was abandoned. This meant that we had to squeeze 4 people into one of the 3 person tents. So it was a very cozy Ben, Hamza, Matt and I that squeezed into a Marmot Thor 3P. Louis, Ben and Darren were our neighbors to one side and Tacqui, Arnie and Mahadi on the other side. Al, Sayed and Aziz were on a platform about 50 m up hill. Upon arrival at camp 3, almost everyone donned their down suits and it was a down-fest in the tent as down suitswere funneled into down sleeping bags. During the night, everyone apologized for their constant wriggling and fidgeting in the tight quarters but realistically we had so much down padding between us that we hardly felt a thing.<br />
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Ominously the snow continued to fall during the night, sounding like sand on the tent walls. Sharing a stove amongst 4 people, we melted snow, prepared ramen and munched on our sacks. Sardine packed in a tent can be dispiriting but with Zen like Hamza and stoic Matt, we settled in well. As eyelids lowered for the evening, we collectively willed the snow to stop.<br />
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<b>July 19th - Waiting at Camp 3</b><br />
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Ben on the radio at 6am to Al stirred me from a terrible sleep. Not even sure if I could use the word sleep but I did remember some dreaming, so I guess I got some rest. It had snowed intermittently all night and Ben and Al agreed that it best we hold off our push to camp 4 until it stopped snowing.<br />
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I was shocked when Hamza then informed us that he had vomited during the night and continued to have a headache that morning. It was with a heavy heart, that Ben recommended that due to Hamza having a combination of AMS symptoms, that he should descend. I had named Hamza the ‘Khan Tengri King’ due to his ascent of that mountain in 2010 and was quietly confident that he would climb very high on Broad Peak. I was quite devastated that he would be descending. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO_gPmmqtwq1HC7Cj-Eqs5hfMchSbtHxMDED3-Ejimlw8jYLdtnagZciItrFffjwpYZ6mtAFoOjpjJPOHwGAl5BGPu7fdqXpalVTrAaUIHfAztx1HCo5rrxd0epB4bPL4-PYnve7taZDc/s1600/robboGraceDdescend.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="256" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO_gPmmqtwq1HC7Cj-Eqs5hfMchSbtHxMDED3-Ejimlw8jYLdtnagZciItrFffjwpYZ6mtAFoOjpjJPOHwGAl5BGPu7fdqXpalVTrAaUIHfAztx1HCo5rrxd0epB4bPL4-PYnve7taZDc/s400/robboGraceDdescend.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Robbo and Grace descending from C3 © brad jackson</td></tr>
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Matt also decided to descend. For the past 2 days he had been suffering some unspecified ailment that had been affecting his climbing performance. Matt had been arriving at camp later than his expectations and this did not bode well for his summit attempt. Matt made the brave and wise decision to descend to repair and recuperate for his attempt on K2.<br />
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In the space of an hour, our 4-person cell had become a spacey 2-person berth. The snow continued to fall. Louis popped his head into our tent at 9am and he and I optimistically agreed that snow would stop soon and the afternoon sun would consolidate the snow into a wonderful solid pathway to the summit. Ben called Al again and we held our decision for the summit push to 6pm. We were basing our decision on a weather forecast that had predicted a shot at the summit on the 19th and 20th but the outside reality was completely at odds with the forecast. The Swedish climber Fredrick has earlier dubbed his German weather forecaster the evilincarnation of Herman Goebbels due to the inaccuracy of his forecasts and I was starting to think falling the same lines of our weather forecaster as the snow continued to fall into midday.<br />
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More 2-minute noodles were prepared for lunch and copious snowdrift into the vestibule meant collecting snow for water was a task easily done from within my sleeping bag. As the afternoon dragged on and the sound of very dry snow continued to abrade against the tent, my optimism faded. Ben kept talking about food, the best sandwiches he’d had and the sumptuous Italian buffets he had dined upon. This can be very frustrating when one’s present food options consist of 2-minute noodles, happy cow cheese and some unloved freeze-dried food.<br />
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6pm rolled around and our worst fears were confirmed. In a continued theme, snow still fell. Now he snow turned from annoyance to danger. The slopes above our tents were forming the foundations of an avalanche, which was to have dire consequences for one person the following day. We cancelled our previously suggested midnight departure for a summit push and mentally re-arranged ourselves to pack up and head back to base camp the next morning. Once again as night fell and temperatures dropped snow continued to fall but strangely even with just 2 people in our tent, the night seemed warmer and I just used my sleeping bag more as a blanket rather than as a cocoon as per the previous night.<br />
<br />Field Touring Alpinehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06854859430334159650noreply@blogger.com3