FTA Broad Peak 2013 update - Summit Attempt update

Summit and descending!
Ron and Scott made a summit bid today leaving from camp three at about 7100m. Ron managed to top out along with three high altitude porters while Scott turned about shortly before the top. They are on descent and we look forward to hearing the details when they get back down!
[note: we have now heard that our BC staff may have been a bit excited and Ron only reached the false summit- we are awaiting his return to base camp and will update ASAP!]

ridge above the col on Broad Peak © stu remensnyder

Successful Evacuation
Brian has already made his way out from base camp on a helicopter flight yesterday and is now on his way back home. John was able to accompany him out as well and give hims support at every turn. Our ground staff did a great job hustling them through the process of evaluation and them down to Islamabad. Brian is sporting a nice caste from the Pakistani Military hospital and we thank them for all of their help as well.

more news shortly!

FTA Broad Peak 2013 - Summit bid getting under way

Summit Bid Ahead

K2 from C3 on Broad Peak © stu remensnyder

With a 2-3 day weather window over the weekend looking quite good, Ron and Scott will be heading up to Camp 2 (6200m/20,400ft) tomorrow and hoping for a summit bid on the 14th if all goes well. The weather looks to be holding into the 15th so they may have a spare day to work with. They will be on the hill for a few days so we may not hear directly from them til monday or tuesday but will be able to follow along from our bc staff.

They are well acclimatized from sleeping at Camp 2 and both had been to over 7000m/23,100ft on the last round up. Camp 3 is typically located above 7100m leaving about 900m vertical on the summit day. In some years we push the camp up rather than summit directly from Camp 3 as this can shorten the summit day. They will have to see how they are going when they arrive and will either head straight for the top the next day or push camp up and try for the top the following morning. Factors that will plan into the decision include snow conditions, route fixing concerns and other climbers on the hill to join forces with to push the route through.

On summit day they will work from camp on moderate terrain to the base of the col where it steepens up considerably for about 50-100 meters and can often be as much as 50-60° of snow, ice or rock. One they have gained the col at 7850m they have to negotiate an exposed and sinuous ascending ridge with short rocky and snow/ice steps to reach the fore summit at about 8030m. This is often as far as climbers get as the next 16 vertical meters is nearly 900m away and one must be feeling strong as the trip over and back can still be a few more hours of the hardest work one has ever done. On ascent the right side of the ridge looks steeply all the way back down the base camp in Pakistan while the left side drops nearly vertically many thousands of feet down in to China.

We will have word on their progress and post it here!

Ecav Update
The last 4 days have seen a lot of mediocre weather in base camp or in Skardu (or both) and Brian is still waiting along with John for the arrival of the helicopter. He is resting well, watching reruns of movies on an iPad and looking forward to a soft bed in the next few days. Today the weather was better in Skardu and base camp but still poor in-between. We hope tomorrow will bring the clear weather needed for a safe flight out.

The image below is from 2003 and shows the kind of terrain for the landing and why it is important that they have excellent visibility and proper winds for landing in the thin air at 4800m/15,800ft.

Helicopter evac near Broad Peak BC © stu remensnyder

FTA Broad Peak 2013 update - Team in BC after C2 rotation

Climbing towards C1 on Broad Peak © Brad Jackson

Over the last 3-4 days our team spent nights at C1 and C2 and even tagged C3 before descending to base camp for a rest period. They enjoyed great views of K2 and life high on the steep mountain during this time and are quite well acclimatized to 6200m or better now.

Unfortunately, on the descent below C1, Brian sustained a lowed leg injury and had to be assisted to return to base camp. A few climbers from other teams, local HAPs and a rescue group from Concordia all assisted and we thank them all for their great help. His injury is serious enough that he will need to have a flight out but he is uninjured aside from his leg injury. When he is back in Skardu we will be able to assess the full extent of the injury and sort out his best course for treatment and return home.

We have arranged for a helicopter flight out and are awaiting good weather for the next chance for them to fly him out. At this time the whole team is safely resting at base camp under the cover of clouds and hoping for clearer skies tomorrow.

After a few days at base camp the remaining members will look to make a final cycle to spend a night at C3 before looking for a summit bid. Having already had nights at C2 though it is possible for the team to make a bid on the next round up and the long term forecast looks like a low wind period perhaps around the 17th of july.

We will have more updates on Brian's evacuation and the climbing plan in the next 24-48 hours and post it then.

Climbing from C2 to C3 on Broad Peak © stu remensnyder

Broad Peak 2013 update - C1 rotation done, C2 next up!

Our team calls in from BC to let us know they will be on the hill for the next few days working their way up to C2 and then back down again. They may be out of touch for a few days and back in touch on the 7th or 8th when back in base camp.



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Broad Peak 2013 update - C1 nights ahead

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Broad Peak 2013 update - Heading to C1!

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FTA Broad Peak 2013 - Climb under way!

BC Reached

Broad Peak BC on a serene evening © Brad Jackson

Our team is enjoying a rest day after arriving at base camp and will begin the climb in earnest tomorrow. They have had some rain today and are hopeful for better weather and better views shortly.The first few days will include walks to the base of the hill and load carrying to C1 at about 5800m. Everyone is well but for a few bellies still adjusting to the local flora and fauna!

The base camp is at approximately 4800m and is located each year in about the same place according to GPS location but is entirely different each year as the glacier moves about 2 meters per day which means that last years BC is about 700m further down towards Concordia. The rocks and ice they are camped on will be out to Paiju in about 100 years by my (very) rough calculation! It also means any tripods that Vittorio Sella left behind in 1909 should be for sale in the antique markets in Askole any day now - though they may have been a bit crunched up on the way :-)

View to K2 from near the base of the Broad Peak climb © stu remensnyder

C1 next up

They will be working on establishing Camp 1 at near 5800m over the next few days and will have great views of K2 from the lower slopes of the climb as they go. C1 is perched in a small and airy spot and there are not a lot of spaces for tents so in some years we establish a lower camp at about 5300m. This lower camp is not preferred is more exposed to avalanches so must be used with caution. The views from C1 are spectacular and it is quite amazing to see how smooth the Baltoro looks from high up after having scrambled and wended one's way over and through it for many days.

Ascending the lower slopes of Broad Peak © stu remensnyder

C1 on Broad Peak © Brad Jackson

More news shortly!

Broad Peak 2013 update - Team Checks in from BC

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FTA Broad Peak Update - Trekking towards BC

Team Safe and Sound
Our team is enjoying the trek to BC and everyone is doing well. They have had some hot but clear days and enjoyed views of the peaks along the way. They will be pulling into base camp in the next few days and we look forward to having an update from them when they are settled in. We have no word on the impact of the events in the Nanga Parbat region on any groups in the Baltoro region but to this point there has been none and treks and climbs already under way are proceeding as planned. Decisions are still being made that could affect us and we will simply have to wait and see.

The Trek to BC
Arrival at an 8000m base camp in the Karakoram is quite unlike the treks to any other place on the planet. The glacial avenue on which they walk is bordered by an extraordinary array of peaks from small to tall and from rocky and jagged to snow adorned. By the time they are ensconced in their tents at base camp they will have walked through a century of climbing tales, which have been retold in journals, books and film, and have an understanding of these stories that one can only appreciate fully in person. On arrival at Concordia one can imagine the first expedition to reach there in 1892 being just as awestruck by the density of immense peaks soaring up some 4000m/13000ft above you.

Chogalisa from Concordia © stu remensnyder

Looking left, from Concordia, you see the pyramid of K2 nearly the same as it looked to Aleister Crowley and his crew who tackled its northeast ridge in 1902. Turning to your right and seeing the airy crest of Chogalisa, it is hard to imagine that the Duke of Abruzzi made it to within just 150m of the top after having already spent many weeks working on the ridge which bears his name on K2. Straight ahead of you is Gasherbrum IV which remains still one of the most demanding climbs in the world. It lacks but a few meters to have been included in the 8000m club, but this did not stop Walter Bonatti from finding its top in 1958. Situated in-between K2 and Gasherbrum IV lies our objective, Broad Peak. The 12th highest peak on the planet and first summited by Markus Schmuck and his team in 1957. In a few days our team hopes to set foot on this very peak and follow in their footsteps!

K2 from near Concordia © brad jackson

Broad Peak from Concordia © stu remensnyder

Broad Peak 2013 update - Team in Paiju and sad news from Nanga Parbat

Our team is on their 4th day of trekking to base camp and they are safe and sound in Paiju at this time and at this time plan to continue on to BC. They were deeply saddened to hear of the events which took place in Nanga Parbat BC earlier today and express their sympathies for all of the families and friends affected. 

We will have more word tomorrow about movement in general in Pakistan and on the K2 trek in specific. At this time new teams are not moving up the Karakoram from Islamabad but this may change in the days ahead as the situation becomes more clear. Teams in the Baltoro region are continuing on at this time but again this may change in the days ahead. It appears that teams in the Nanga Parbat area are being evacuated, according to the BBC, though many climbers were high on the hill at the time. 

As most offices and ministries were closed today we will all await official word on what is to become of climbers and trekkers on their way in or those already in the mountains. We have seen the many reports around the internet but it is premature to speculate on what will happen from here. The embassies and consulates, Pakistani government, police and military all have a say in the next steps and we will be in communication with staff on the ground to be sure we are up to date on the situation.

There are no words that will begin to convey the sense of shared loss that we have for the people directly and indirectly affected by the tragic and brutal loss of life in Nanga Parbat BC. We extend our thoughts and prayers to all involved and hope that some sense can be made of this in the days ahead. 

We will update again tomorrow when we have more information.

A map of the region from Nanga Parbat to Broad Peak with Skardu located in-between

Broad Peak 2013 update - Team calls in from Paiju

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Broad Peak 2013 - trek underway at last!

En route to base camp finally!

Askole and the first views of the Karokoram © field touring alpine

Our team got off yesterday after well too many days waiting in Skardu for the military authorities to clear members of not only our team but several others. They are under way with trekking permits at this time so that they cannot lose precious days of acclimatization and the climbing permit is being confirmed shortly.

Broad Peak 2013 update - On the road to Askole

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Broad Peak 2013 - Waiting Days in Skardu

Skardu Days

Our team is headed off to Askole tomorrow after a bureacratic delay due to the permitting process. A process which seems to a new challenge each year and one that requires patience and a willingness to accept the inevitable challenges of climbing in a military zone. I wrote a year ago about the process and commented on the fact that unlike many for countries, to climb in Pakistan is not something one can decide a few days ahead, get a flight, pack your gear and go. There are many weeks and often months worth of documentation, emails, visits to embassies and ministries and even then small things that need to be worked out on a personal level in Pakistan. Shortly they will be off in 4x4's and headed for the trail head and all of the paperwork will be left behind!

In the meantime they have enjoyed a few nice days of the past days including walks about town, hikes in the nearby hills and are all feeling well and gaining acclimatization to 2500m/8,200ft. Scott sent in a few images of their days and we hope you enjoy! 

The Indus from the hotel in Skardu

Supper at the Concordia Hotel in Skardu

On the ride from Islamabad to Skardu

Ron on a day hike above Skardu

Scott at his day hike high point!

Ron and Gunga on the day hike

at the ministry waiting, waiting waiting!

Gunga, the first mongolian woman to summit Everest

With Gunga

Broad Peak 2013 update - Skardu Acclimatization Day

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Broad Peak 2013 - Skardu!

FTA Broad Peak 2013 in Skardu - John, Brian, Ron and Scott

Gear Day

The team arrived late yesterday afternoon and after a good sleep had a very busy day today which included gear checks, shopping, packing and repacking. Among the many things they have done today are setting up tents and checking them to be sure they are in good shape, sending out for repairs those that need a little TLC, testing stoves and fuel to make sure there will be no flareups on the hill, checking and testing the emergency oxygen systems, replenishing the med kit and checking over the repair kit, setting up the solar panels and charging up the Sherpa 50, picking up batteries and spare toilet paper, selecting a few dynamic climbing ropes and route fixing gear, and meeting the military liason officer (LO) who will be joining our team to base camp (and maybe up onto the hill).

Broad Peak 2013 update - team checks in from Skardu

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Broad Peak 2013 under way!

En route to Skardu

Our Broad Peak team has assembled over the last few days in blistering hot ( 43°C /110°F ) Islamabad. After a few days of visits to ministries for visa extensions, trips back to the airport for delayed luggage, and a little sightseeing, they have headed for the cooler climes of Skardu at 2200m/7300ft.

The mighty Indus River seen from the Concordia Hotel in Skardu © Brad jackson

Skardu is a relaxing but busy town and the jumping off point for most climbers and trekkers headed to K2, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum II, Nanga Parbat and Spantik. FTA's Dave Hancock has posted a fun tour of the town by motorcycle and we invite you to join him for a short tour so you can get the feel of the town:

Join FTA's Dave Hancock for  a motorcycle ride in Skardu

FTA Upcoming trips

After a long winter holiday in the office we are cranking things up once again for our summer and autumn trips. We hope that you can join us for a trip this year and if not that you can enjoy following along (and dreaming of when you can join us!)

base camp at Broad Peak © Brad Jackson

This summer we already have Broad Peak, Spantik and K2 treks in the works and are looking for a few more great members for each trip.

Broad Peak

Broad Peak from Concordia © stu remensnyder

This will be the 10th anniversary of our first 8000m peak summit which was on Broad Peak in 2003  by member Alex Txicon. Alex has gone on to become a very experienced and successful 8000m climber with summits on nine 8000m peaks and just knocked off the first winter ascent of Leila Peak! Everyone has to start somewhere and we hope you will start with us on Broad Peak!

Broad Peak info on our main site


Spantik

High on Spantik © Brad Jackson

We have been to Spantik on a regular basis over the last 10 years and always look forward to getting back to the 8km long ridge on this fantastic 7000m peak. This is a trip that is suitable for climbers with relatively little technical experience but one that will challenge even seasoned climbers with its altitude, cold and demanding summit day.

Spantikinfo on our main site


Ama Dablam, Island Peak and Everest Base Camp

View from Ama Dablam © stu remensnyder

In the autumn we have our 10th year in a row planned on Ama Dablam in November and we know of no other western companies that have run 10 straight years on the 6865m peak.

We will be running a concurrent Everest base camp trek so family and friends can join you as you make your way to the peak and meet you when you are done to celebrate with a yak sizzler in Namche!

Ama Dablam info on our main site


Khumbu Peaks and Passes

Stupas near Pangboche

For intrepid trekkers or for those looking for a less technical expedition we offer the Island Peak option during the Everest base camp trek or a complete set of moderate peaks in one trip with our Khumbu Peaks and Passes which we are looking forward to running for our third straight year in October. Both trips have trekking-only components for family and friends who just want to enjoy the high mountain air but not the steep slopes!

Khumbu Peaks & Passes info on our main site

Everest Base Camp and Island Peak info on our main site


Tharpu Chuli (Tent Peak)

Tharpu Chuli summit ridge

An often forgotten peak that is worth the attention is Tharpu Chuli (or "Tent Peak") which lies in the center of the Annapurna Sanctuary. This shark's fin of a peak rises up to just under 6000m and blesses any climber with extraordinary views of Annapurna's southwest face as well as an amazing 360° view of the massif which includes Machapucharre, Annapurna IV, Singhu Chuli and much more.
Tharpu Chuli info on our main site

So Much More
 In 2013 and 2014 we have an array of trips to countries around the world including Nepal India, Ecuador, Aconcagua, Kilimanjaro. We have a trips for trekkers and climbers of all abilities so we can be sure to find one that fits your challenge and adventure level.

Enjoy looking through our list of trips and let us know how we can help you to have your dream trip!

Expeditions and Climbs at our main site

Treks and Walks at our main site

Ama Dablam BC © stu remensnyder