from stu in the usa office
June 27, 2010
Chris dropped a gabcast yesterday evening with an update on the expedition and you can listen to the full dispatch at the bottom.
On the 24th Chris and his crew placed 1400m of rope to C1 at 5700m and also managed loads of tents on the 24th and 25th - enough for C1 and C2! Fabrizio, Meagan and the HAPS were continuing the fixing effort already on the 26th and planning on trying to put in the route to C2 by the end of today after a night at C1.
Crossing the bergschrung on Broad Peak © stu remensnyder
On the 27th (today) Chris, Ben, Ed, Mike, Brian and Rob were planning to head up to C1 to have a rotation of sleeping at C1 and taking a walk up towards C2 before coming back to BC for a rest. on the 28th the remainder of the team will likely head up for a night as well and that should see every member with a night at C1 by the 29th.
Climbing from C2 to C3 on Broad Peak © stu remensnyder
This begins the slow process of acclimatizing with the climb high sleep low in full effect. Over the next week or 2 the team will get nights in at C1 with walks above and drop down to BC, rest a day or so then back to C1 for a night, C2 for a night and a walk and downto bc for a rest, then up to C2 for a night, then to C3, back down and then prepare for summit bids! This is at least the normal plan to be surely upset by weather, acclimatizing pace and other variables. It is important to enjoy your time at BC and in 2003 we had Jean Troillet and his partner in BC trying to float in wetsuits down the icy glacial rivers and Korea's Mr Han playing golf...lots of ways to pass the time!
Long par 3 at Broad Peak BC 2003 © stu remensnyder
After everyone is acclimatized to C2 we'll pare down C1 and bring those tents to C3 on the first push. for many members heading to K2 after a night at C3 and a walk above they may end their efforts on Broad Peak and save reserves for K2. Fabrizio will plan to head over to K2 after his first nights at C2 on Broad Peak and begin to get the route in to C2 over there before returning to Broad Peak for a summit push. During that same time Chris, Ben, Rob and the rest of the crew will finish off the route and load carrying to C3. Our hope is to minimize the number of runs and therefore exposure on K2 by having a high level of acclimatizing on Broad Peak on less demanding terrain. So far we are off to the races with the route in so quickly and members feeling so strongly. we'll hope the great cooking of Amir Ali and the weather gods conspire to give our team strong legs and mild winds!
A day at the Broad Peak beach! © stu remensnyder
Field Touring Alpine Audio Dispatche #86 - Chris at Broad Peak BC, June 26, 2010
Listen to all the Field Touring Alpine Audio Dispatches at Gabcast